Cuba

Getting Around By Air

A number of airlines under the CASCA banner operate regional flights within Cuba. Cubana (website: www.cubana.cu) and AeroCaribbean (website: www.aero-caribbean.com) are the principal carriers, operating flights between Havana and Santiago de Cuba, Holguin, Cayo Coco and Cayo Largo. Newcomer Aerogaviota (website: www.aerogaviota.com) has picked up some of the smaller routes and operates private charters. Aerotaxi operates ancient Russian bi-planes, and should be avoided if possible.

Getting Around by Rail

The national rail company is Ferrocarriles de Cuba, often shortened to Ferrocuba (tel: (7) 862 4888 or 861 4259 for train times in Havana or (22) 622 836 for train times in Santiago de Cuba). There is no official website, but further information is available from The Man in Seat Sixty-One (website: www.seat61.com/Cuba.htm). The principal rail route is from Havana to Santiago de Cuba. Some trains on this route have air conditioning and refreshments. There are also through trains from Havana to other towns. Previously, the rail network connected the vast majority of the country but has been badly affected by natural disasters and now only certain parts of the country are accessible by rail. The trains are slow and punctuality does not seem to be a priority, but journeys are scenic and relaxing.

Getting Around by Road

What traffic there is here drives on the right. Cubans are not allowed to own cars, and outside of major cities almost the only vehicles on the road are agricultural deliveries, whose drivers know their routes by heart. As a result, signposting is a low priority. Buy the best map available at home as they are in short supply here. Large sections of the autopista (motorway) are in a diabolical condition, potholed and poorly lit; to join or exit the motorway, drivers must often cross oncoming lanes, assuming lane markers exist. With heavy goods traffic concentrated on the motorway, many provincial primary roads are in fairly good condition. Always stop at level crossings, which are often unmarked and almost always un-gated. The lack of traffic makes Cuba a popular choice for cycling tours.

Coach/bus : Avoid the overcrowded public bus service provided by Astro. Instead, choose Viazul (tel: (7) 881 1413; website: www.viazul.cu), with daily well-appointed coaches connecting most major cities.

Car hire : All car hire companies are state-owned and badly organised. Prices are negotiable up to a point, but expect to be delayed when picking up the vehicle.

Regulations: Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on the motorway, 90kph (56mph) on primary roads (highways), 60kph (37mph) on rural roads, 50kph (31mph) on urban roads and 40kph (25mph) near schools. Motorcycle traffic police and stationary check points are common, and they are usually very strict. Drivers must be aged 21 or over.

Documentation : Valid national driving licence required.

Getting Around Towns and Cities

Plentiful buses, minibuses and shared taxis criss-cross Havana, but are almost always overcrowded.

Taxis : Opt for a modern air-conditioned vehicle, or for special occasions a vintage American car (available at the best hotels). All official taxis have meters, but fares should be agreed before departure in ‘private taxis’ that are hailed on the street. The latter are often old Ladas with blacked-out windows (private taxis are illegal but informally tolerated and in general safe). Watch out for taxis with ‘broken’ meters, especially at airports, and in Old Havana. In view of serious accidents that have involved tourists, travellers should not use mopeds or the three-wheel coco-taxis that are seen around tourist areas.

Journey Times

The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Havana to other major towns in Cuba.

Main Airports

Havana (HVA) (José Martí International) is 15km (9 miles) southwest of the city. To/from the airport:Bus and taxi services to the city are available (journey time - 1 hour by bus; 20 to 30 minutes by taxi). Facilities: Duty-free shops, bank and bureau de change, tourist information/hotel reservation, restaurants and bars, and car hire.

There are also international airports at Camagüey, Cayo Coco, Cayo Largo, Ciego de Avila, Cienfuegos, Holguin, Manzanillo, Santiago de Cuba and Varadero.

Getting There by Water

Due to the US blockade, there are no scheduled passenger services to Cuba, and any cruise ship calling there cannot dock in the USA for six months afterwards. Nonetheless, an increasing number of non-US cruise ships do call at Havana, Santiago de Cuba, and coastal resorts such as Cayo Coco.

It is possible to arrive on a private yacht, subject to prior arrangement with the authorities. In Havana, contact Marina Hemingway (tel: (7) 241 149).

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.

Hot, sub-tropical climate all year. Most rain falls between May and October and hurricanes can occur in autumn (August to November). Humidity varies between 75% and 95%. Cooler months are January to April when the least rain falls.

Required Clothing

Lightweight clothes most of the year; the high humidity makes it unwise to wear synthetics close to the skin. Light waterproofs are advisable all year round.

Hotels

From staid and decaying state-owned giants to exciting new partnerships with French and Spanish hotel groups, there is enormous variation in quality and style, particularly in Havana. It pays to do some advance research, even if booking a package. The various government operators specialise in different sectors of the market. Habaguanex (website: www.habaguanex.com) tends to deal with historic or boutique hotels for the luxury market (an increasing trend in Cuba and particularly Havana). Cubanacan (website: www.cubanacan.cu) operates a number of mid-range city and beach hotels under different labels, and has signed a deal with the Orient Express Group to build new luxury hotels. Sol Melia (website: www.solmelia.com) concentrates on big luxury hotels, with an emphasis on beach resorts. Many hotels are advertised as luxury hotels, boasting four or five stars, but in general, these will not live up to western expectations of comfort, service and gastronomy.

Passport Note

Persons of Cuban origin who are nationals of other countries must travel with a Cuban passport if they left Cuba after 1970.

Neither visa exemptions nor tourist visa card facilities are applicable to foreign passport holders born in Cuba, unless holding a document proving withdrawal of Cuban citizenship.

Passports

Passports valid for at least six months after the departure date from Cuba required by all nationals referred to in the chart above without diplomatic representation in Cuba.

Visas

Required by all nationals referred to in the chart above except:

(a) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country within 72 hours, provided they hold confirmed onward tickets and US$50 per day.

Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see Contact Addresses).

Visa Note

1. Nationals of the USA are subject to the Cuban assets control regulations. The regulations require that persons subject to US jurisdiction be licensed to engage in any travel related transactions to, from and within Cuba. Transactions related to tourist travel are not licenseable. The restriction includes tourist travel to Cuba from or through a third country such as Mexico or Canada. US law enforcement authorities have increased enforcement of these regulations at US airports and pre-clearance facilities in third countries. Travellers who fail to comply with the department of treasury regulations will face civil penalties and criminal prosecution upon return to the US.

Types of Visa and Cost

Tourist Visa Card:£15. All other visas:£36 (plus a £15 processing fee.)

Validity

Tourist and Business visa: valid for stays of up to 30 days, visas must be used within 180 days from date of issue, extensions of 30 days are available in Cuba 

Applications to:

Consulate (or consular section at embassy); see Contact Addresses. Application forms for tourist visa cards can be obtained from certain tour operators and travel agents or downloaded from the website of the embassy of the Republic of Cuba in the UK (see Contact Addresses).

Working Days Required

Tourist visa card: One day (seven days for postal applications). Tourist visa: 48 hours. Business and Family visa: 72 hours (two weeks for postal applications). Journalist visa: six weeks.

Health Care

Obtain adequate health insurance before travelling. Prior to treatment, visitors may need to show proof of ability to pay, though some emergency services are provided free of charge. Standards of care and training are excellent, but equipment and drugs are often in short supply.

Note

* Potentially required if travelling extensively throughout Cuba.

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.

Food and Drink

Surprisingly for an island so rich in marine life, fish and seafood rarely top the menu - most seafood is exported. Cuisine is a mix of Spanish and Afro-Caribbean, heavily reliant on rice, beans, chicken and pork. Fresh vegetables are hard to come by, and flavours are limited by the lack of available herbs and spices. Some of the best cooking, and often an illegal lobster or two, is found in paladares (small, private restaurants). In state-run establishments, service can be painfully slow and sometimes even surly.

National specialities:

• Soup made of chicken or black beans.

• Black beans & rice (known locally as Moors and Christians).

• Chicken or pork with rice, or occasionally french fries.

• Plantains, baked or fried.

• Omelettes, often stuffed with meat and/or cheese.

National drinks:

• Cuban coffee (very strong).

• Cuban beer (tasty, yet weak).

• Rum cocktails (especially the daiquiri, mojito and cuba libre).

Legal drinking age: There is no minimum drinking age, but buyers must be at least 16 years old to purchase alcohol.

Tipping : A 10% gratuity is appreciated.

Nightlife

Havana is renowned for its after-dark entertainment scene, and only the tip of the iceberg is visible to tourists on a short stay. Even medium-sized bars usually have a house band playing Cuban classics. The Casa de la Musica in Havana attracts tourists and locals alike, the latter distinguished by their accomplished salsa dance moves and ability to consume whole bottles of Varadero rum. The famous Tropicananightclub stages nightly open-air cabarets that are a throwback to the decadent days before the Revolution. The Cabaret Parisien at the Hotel Nacional is similar, and both attract tour groups on ‘day and night’ packages from the coastal beach resorts. 

Theatre, opera and ballet are staged all year round in Havana and seats are very cheap. Cinemas show films in Spanish, but some have subtitles. Santiago de Cuba is the spiritual home of Son - the music that gave birth to salsa, and regular live sessions are on offer at the Casa de la Trova. In beach resorts, nightlife tends to mimic what is on offer in Havana, with varying degrees of success. Varadero has a thriving scene, but in the smaller resorts (many of which are all-inclusive) most entertainment is planned and formulaic.

Shopping

Those hoping to spend, spend, spend will be disappointed in Cuba. There are a few luxury shops in Old Havana and in large hotels like the Habana Libre. Some offer tax-free purchases, but stock is generally uninspiring. Cigars: Cuba makes the world’s finest cigars. Buy the real thing at factories such as RealFábrica de Tabacos Partagás in Havana, which also sells fabulously ornate cigar boxes. Cigars from street vendors will probably be fakes or factory rejects, and may be confiscated at the airport. Castro’s favourite brand (before he gave up) was Cohiba, Ché Guevara favoured Montecristos, and before he put the blockade in place, JFK stocked up on Upmans. Rum: Santiago de Cuba was once home to the Bacardi family distillery, but Havana Club is now the most famous Cuban rum. Good though it is, connoisseurs prefer Varadero. The rich seven-year old variety is sipped like fine malt, while younger and lighter blends are used for cocktails. Souvenirs and other gifts: Ché Guevara merchandise is everywhere. In the capital, perfumes in fine ceramic and glass bottles can be found at Habana 1791.

Shopping hours : Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 0900-1200.

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.

• Follow in famous footsteps. Have a beer at Castillo de Farnes, where Ché and Castro toasted the success of the Revolution, and raise a glass to Hemingway at his old haunt La Bodeguita del Medio (website: www.bazar-virtual.com/palmares).

• Try rolling cigars at one of Cuba’s tobacco factories such as the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás in Havana(website: www.habanos.com), or others in Pinar del Río and Trinidad. 

• Take a stroll along the Malecón, the sea wall that links Old Havana to Vedado, and is popular with fisherman, families and couples. 

• Live the high life in Havana’s Vedado district. The Hotel Nacional has hosted gangsters and film stars and is well-placed for Carnaval processions along the Malecón (website: www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com). 

• Soak up some sun on Cuba’s beaches: from Playas del Este near Havana, where the locals play, to exclusive island resorts like Cayo Coco where the only Cubans around are waiters and chambermaids. Varadero is a lively resort that combines beach life with nightlife, for locals and foreigners. 

• Explore the deep. There are 30 dive sites at Varadero alone. One of the world’s biggest coral reefs is offshore at Cayo Coco, and there are more reefs around Isla de la Juventud,Stevenson’s inspiration for Treasure Island. 

• Hike the Sierra Maestra, dominated by Cuba’s highest mountain Pico Turquino, or trek the marshes and forests of the Zapata Peninsula, teeming with bird, mammal and reptile wildlife. 

• Take an emotional journey to the museum at Playa Girón, scene of the US-backed ‘Bay of Pigs’ invasion in 1961. Touching personal effects of those killed, a harrowing film from the time, and CIA battle plans captured when it all went wrong tell a sad story.  

• Saddle up and go for a gallop through the scenic sugarcane fields around Trinidad, or the hills and valleys of Pinar del Río. 

• Make friends with the locals. Make time for at least a night or two in a casa particular, eat in paladares rather than state-run restaurants, and strike up conversation whenever possible. Cubans are polite, educated, fun, and just dying to make contact with people from other countries. 

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

• Head to the Plaza de Armas in Old Havana for a glimpse of colonial majesty at the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, former residence of the Spanish Crown’s representatives.

• Enjoy wonderful views of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, from the rooftop bar of Old Havana’s Museo Nacional de Historia Natural.

• Wander around the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. The oldest of Havana’s three forts is still standing because it was to all intents and purposes built in the wrong place.

• Take a tour of the Capitolio in Havana’s centre. Built by a dictator to mimic Washington DC’s Capitol (though the detailing on Havana’s version is finer), it housed a puppet parliament until the Revolution.

• Visit the Museo de la Revolución for a historical context of modern Cuba. Outside is the Granma, a cabin cruiser built for 12 people. In 1956, 80 exiled rebels (Castro and Ché among them) came perilously close to sinking the overcrowded yacht, as they sought to return to Cuba.

• Head for Pinar del Río, arguably Cuba’s most beautiful province. The outstanding feature must be the mogotes (oddly rounded limestone mountains, covered in lush vegetation). The caves here, notably the Cueva del Indio, are well worth a visit, with stalactites and stalagmites and underground rivers.

• Visit revolutionary Santa Clara, and the monument, museum and mausoleum of Ché Guevara. His body was only returned from Bolivia in 1997, 30 years after his capture and execution. In 1959, he and 300 rebels defeated 3,000 of Batista’s troops here, leading to the dictator’s flight just days later.

• Feel the history in colonial Trinidad, founded in 1514. Locals ride horses down cobbled streets past houses painted in pastel colours. Elegant mansions are now museums in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Enjoy great views of the Valley of the Sugar Mills ( Valle de los Ingenios) from the Torre de Manaca Iznaga (50m/165ft), an old slave watch tower.

• See the country’s best musicians and dancers at work in Santiago de Cuba.Visit the Museo Emilio Bacardí, which contains the rum magnate’s collection of antiques and fine art, and the Moncada Barracks, where Castro launched an abortive uprising in 1953. The Castillo del Morro is now a museum of piracy.

Further information: Websites for most museums and monuments can be found through the government’s web portals, www.cnpc.cult.cu and www.ohch.cu.

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.