Visually stunning Hong Kong offers a warp-speed ‘shop till you drop' lifestyle combined with enclaves of Chinese tradition. It is a popular destination for Asian and Chinese tourists, as well as a major stopover destination for continental travellers. Self-branded as ‘Asia's World City', it is also one of the world's major financial and trading centres. Hong Kong's 260 outlying islands, few of which are inhabited, provide a tranquil alternative to its frenetic energy elsewhere. The two main parts, Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, are an eclectic mix of modern skyscrapers, colonial buildings and traditional temples.
On 1 July 1997, Hong Kong became a Special Administrative Region of China in an arrangement lasting 50 years. Under the ‘one country, two systems' policy, Hong Kong maintains its own political, social and economic systems. English remains an official language and Hong Kong's border with China still exists.
Hong Kong was part of China before coming under British administration as a result of the 19th-century Opium Wars. When peace terms were drawn up in 1841, Hong Kong Island was ceded by China to Britain. It remained under British control (apart from a four-year period under Japanese occupation during WWII) until the 1997 handover.
Much has changed since 1841 when then foreign secretary Lord Palmerston described Hong Kong as ‘nothing but a barren island without a house upon it'.
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Cross-harbour passenger services (shortest route - 7 to 10 minutes) are operated by Star Ferries between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon (sailing every 6 to 12 minutes). There are frequent passenger and vehicle services on other cross-harbour routes. Ferries and hydrofoils service the outlying islands, Peng Chau, Cheung Chau, Lamma Island and Lantau Island, including Discovery Bay. Ferry services are run by New World First Ferry Services, the Hong Kong Kowloon Ferry and Discovery bay Transportation Services Ltd.
Tours of the harbour and to Aberdeen and Yau Ma Tei typhoon shelters are available by watertours junks, and visits to outlying islands are possible by public ferry. Weekdays are the best time to go, since ferries tend to be very crowded at weekends. During the typhoon season (May to November), all ferry services may be suspended during bad weather.
Mass Transit Railway (MTR) has nine lines: Kwun Tong, Tsuen Wan, Island, Tung Chung, Tseung Kwan O, East Rail, West Rail, Ma On Shan and Disneyland resort, which provides a cross-harbour line. It is more expensive than the ferry, but quicker, particularly for those travelling further into Kowloon than Tsim Shat Sui or to Lantau Island. Trains run between 0600-0100. The Airport Express runs from the airport to Kowloon and Hong Kong Island (journey time - 28 minutes).
For visitors staying for a week or more it is worth getting an Octopus Card, an electronic ticket from which the cost of the journey is automatically deducted when it is placed on a sensor. The card may be used on MTR services, the Kowloon-Canton Railway, major bus routes, trams, minibuses and some ferries. The Airport Express Tourist Octopus Card (is valid for 3 days, entitling passengers to two single Airport Express journeys and 3 days of unlimited travel by MTR.
The Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation (KCR) has 13 stations within Hong Kong. KCRC also runs the Light Rail (LR) which connects the northwest new territories Tuen Mun and Yuen Long.
Traffic drives on the left. The road network is extensive and of high quality but often congested in central areas.
The Octopus Card (see Getting Around By Rail above) can be used on buses. Routes run throughout the territory, with cross-harbour routes via the tunnels. Air-conditioned coaches operate along certain Hong Kong and Kowloon routes. Final destinations are marked clearly in Chinese and English. Bus services covering Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories are operated by Kowloon Motor Bus, New World First Bus, and Citybus.
These can pick up and stop on request except at regular bus stops and other restricted areas. Octopus Cards are accepted.
The Octopus Card can be used on trams. They are only available on Hong Kong Island, running from Kennedy Town to Shau Kei Wan (via Happy Valley racecourse). Peak Tram on Hong Kong Island has operated since 1888 and is a cable tramway to the upper terminus on Victoria Peak; Octopus Cards accepted.
These are plentiful in Hong Kong and Kowloon. There is an extra charge for the Cross Harbour Tunnel. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island except Tung Chung Road and the south side of Lantau Island, green ones the rural areas of the New Territories, and blue ones Lantau Island. All taxis operate to and from Hong Kong International Airport. Maxicabs, however, operate on fixed routes without fixed stops. Many drivers speak a little English, but it is wise to get your destination written in Chinese characters. A small tip is expected.
A wide selection of self-drive and chauffeur-driven cars are available, although car hire is not that popular in Hong Kong.
Speed limits are 80kph (50mph) on highways and 50kph (31mph) in urban areas.
An International Driving Permit is recommended, although not legally required. A valid national licence is accepted for up to 12 months. The minimum age is 18 years. Third party insurance is compulsory.
The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Hong Kong Island to main tourist districts and outlying islands.
Road Metro Sea
Kai Tak 0.35 - -
Kowloon 0.20 0.04 0.10
Aberdeen 0.20 - -
Lantau Is. - - 1.00
Approximate Flight Times: From London to Hong Kong is 12 hours; from New York is 16 hours 15 minutes.
Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) (Chek Lap Kok) is located on Lantau Island, 34 km (21 miles) from central Hong Kong. To/from the airport: The easiest connection is via the high-speed train, the Airport Express Line (AEL) (journey time - 28 minutes to Hong Kong station, also stopping at Kowloon and Tsing Yi). Free shuttle buses run from Hong Kong and Kowloon station for Airport Express passengers to various hotels. Many bus routes operate between the airport and Hong Kong and Kowloon. High-speed ferries run between Tung Chung's new development pier at Chek Lap Kok and Tuen Mun, with a shuttle bus from the pier to the airport. A bus runs to the Skypier for connections to Dangguan, Macau, Shekou and Shenzen. Taxis to Hong Kong are readily available. Facilities: Tourist information desks and computer kiosks, bank, bureaux de change and ATMs, bars/restaurants, post office, shops, duty-free and medical centre.
Included in the ticket price.
Main port: Hong Kong port.
High-speed ferry services are operated to and from more than a dozen towns and cities in Guangzhou province's Pearl River Delta from the China Ferry Terminal and Hong Kong International Airport's SkyPier by Chu Kong Passenger Transport Co. TurboJET operates frequent daily services to and from Shenzhen and Macau by jetfoil and high-speed catamaran craft, with journey times of 55 minutes. High-speed catamaran ferries to and from Macau are also operated by New World First Ferry Services.
A large number of cruise ships visit Hong Kong.
Services between Shanghai-Kowloon/Hong Kong (journey time - 25 hours) and Beijing-Kowloon/Hong Kong (journey time - 24 hours) both run on alternate days.
The Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation (KCRC) operates a service between Guangzhou and Kowloon several times a day and a new high-speed line is currently being built. There are also services from Foshan and Dongguan (Changping) to Hong Kong. Restaurant cars are only available if travelling first class. Local KCRC trains run regularly (every 5 to 10 minutes) from Kowloon to Lo Wu, the last stop before the Chinese border. It is then possible to cross the border to Shenzhen, a special economic zone, in China over the border. To go as far as Lo Wu, travellers must hold a visa for China, otherwise it is only possible to get to Sheung Shui. Children under three years old travel free. Children aged three to nine years pay half fare.
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Hong Kong experiences four distinct seasons, with the climate influenced in winter by the north-northeast monsoon and in summer by the south-southwest monsoon. Summers are very hot, with the rainy season running from June to August. Spring and autumn are warm with occasional rain and cooler evenings. Winter can be cold, but most days are mild. There is a risk of typhoons and tropical storms from April to October, although direct hits are rare.
Lightweight clothing during warmer months, with warmer clothes for spring and autumn evenings. It should be noted that even during the hottest weather, a jacket or pullover will be required for the sometimes fierce air conditioning indoors. Warm mediumweights are best during winter. Waterproofing is advisable during summer rains.
Hong Kong offers a wide range of luxury hotels with all the major international chains represented, plus a growing boutique sector. Smaller hotels specialising in ‘family style' hospitality can be a cheaper alternative. There are also a number of fairly new hotels in the New Territories, providing a range of recreational facilities. Guest house accommodation, with good standards and facilities, is also available.
In spite of the large number of hotel rooms available in Hong Kong, visitors are strongly advised to make an advance booking, especially during the peak season (May until November). There is a Hotel Reservation Centre at Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok on Lantau Island which can offer assistance. A 10% service charge and 5% government tax are added to the bill.
Though there is no grading structure as such, hotel members of the Hong Kong Tourism Board fall into one of four categories: High Tariff A Hotels, High Tariff B Hotels, Medium Tariff Hotels and Hostels/Guest houses.
Resort houses on the outlying islands can be hired.
Permitted in the countryside, though permission is required within the Country Park protection area. There are also campsites in rural areas.
There are several hostels and YMCA/YWCAs in Hong Kong.
508-511 Silvercord Tower 2, 30 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong (SAR)
Tel: 2375 3838.
Website: www.hkha.org
41 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong (SAR)
Tel: 2268 7888.
Website: www.ymcahk.org.hk
Room 225-7, Block 19, Shek Kip Mei Estate, Shek Kip Mei, Kowloon, Hong Kong (SAR)
Tel: 2788 1638.
Website: www.yha.org.hk
| Passport Required? | |
|---|---|
| British | Yes |
| Australian | Yes |
| Canadian | Yes |
| USA | Yes |
| Other EU | Yes |
| Visa Required? | |
| British | No/1 |
| Australian | No/2 |
| Canadian | No/2 |
| USA | No/2 |
| Other EU | No/3 |
| Return Ticket Required? | |
| British | Yes |
| Australian | Yes |
| Canadian | Yes |
| USA | Yes |
| Other EU | Yes |
Passport valid for at least six months after the period of intended visit required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.
All visitors must show evidence of sufficient funds to support themselves during their stay.
Not required by nationals referred to in the chart above for the following durations: (a) 1. British Citizens for stays of up to 180 days (British Overseas Citizens, British Subjects, British Protected Persons and nationals of British Dependent Territories may stay for up to 90 days); (b) 2. nationals of Australia, Canada and USA for stays of up to 90 days; (c) 3. nationals of EU countries for stays of up to 90 days (except 1. British citizens for stays of up to 180 days).
Tap water is safe to drink. All hotels also provide bottled water in guest rooms. Milk is pasteurised and dairy products are safe for consumption. Local meat, poultry, seafood, fruit and vegetables are generally considered safe to eat.
Japanese encephalitis may occur in the New Territories between April and October. Immunisation against hepatitis B, diphtheria and tuberculosis is sometimes recommended. Dengue fever is increasing, but the number of cases remains small and outbreaks have been localised.
Charges are made for all services and treatment. Visitors should take out private health insurance. Hotels have a list of government-accredited doctors. First-class Western medicine is practised. Excellent dental care is available. For emergency medical services, dial 999.
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Hong Kong is one of the great centres for international cooking. Apart from several Chinese cuisines, there are also many Indian, Vietnamese, Filipino, Singapore/Malaysian and Thai restaurants. It is the home of authentic Chinese food from all the regions of China, which may be sampled on a sampan in Causeway Bay, on a floating restaurant at Aberdeen, in a Kowloon restaurant, in a street market or at a deluxe hotel. Hotels serve European and Chinese food but there are also restaurants serving every type of local cuisine.
Chinese regional variations on food include Cantonese, Northern (Peking), Chiu Chow (Swatow), Shanghai, Sichuan, and Hakka.
The Chinese do not usually order a drink before dinner.
Cantonese specialities include dim sum (savoury snacks, usually steamed and served in bamboo baskets on trolleys), such as cha siu bao (barbecue pork bun), har gau (steamed shrimp dumplings) and shiu mai (steamed and minced pork with shrimp).
The emphasis in northern food is on bread and noodles, deep frying and spicy sauces. Specialities include Peking duck and hotpot dishes.
Shanghainese food is diced or shredded, stewed in soya or fried in sesame oil with pots of peppers and garlic.
Chiu chow cuisine is from a part of Guangdong province. It uses light, slightly vinegary sauces and is strong on seafood and roast goose.
Hakka food is generally simple in style with baked chicken in salt among the best dishes.
Sichuan food is hot and spicy with plenty of chillies. A speciality is barbecued meat.
Zhian jing (a rice wine served hot like sake).
Liang hua pei (potent plum brandy).
Bai jiu (a fearsome white spirit).
Kaolian (a whisky) and Maotai.
Popular beers are the locally brewed San Miguel and Tsingtao (from China).
Yeun yeung is an even mixture of tea and coffee.
Yum cha (drinking tea) is an integral part of Hong Kong's culinary culture and is the perfect compliment to most dishes. There are many tea houses in Hong Kong where tea can be drunk accompanied by bow law yau, a steaming hot bun stuffed with melted butter, or yau char gwai, a deep fried dough. In tea houses, you are expected to pay at the counter; a tip is not required.
18.
Most hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge and an additional 5% gratuity is also expected. Small tips are expected by doormen and washroom attendants.
There are many nightclubs, hostess and karaoke clubs, theatres and cinemas. Cultural concerts, plays and exhibitions can be seen at Hong Kong's City Hall, which also has a dining room, ballroom and cocktail lounge.
The Hong Kong Cultural Centre, including a 2,100-seat Concert Hall, 1,750-seat Grand Theatre, a studio theatre with 300 to 500 seats and restaurants, bars and other facilities, has become the major venue for cultural concerts, plays and operas.
Hong Kong Art Centre in Wan Chai supplements the City Hall's entertainment with culture in the form of Chinese opera, puppet shows, recitals and concerts. American, Chinese, European and Japanese films with subtitles are shown at a number of good, air-conditioned cinemas.
Two daily papers, the Hong Kong Standard and the South China Morning Post, contain details of entertainment.
An unusual event to watch is night horseracing, held Wednesday nights from September to May. Night cruises are operated by Star Ferries and are an excellent way to see Hong Kong by night. Most pubs and clubs are in east Tsim Sha Tsui, Wan Chai, Lan Kwai Fong and Central (Hong Kong Island).
Whether you shop in modern air-conditioned arcades or more traditional street markets, the range of goods available in Hong Kong is vast. Many famous-name shops have opened in Hong Kong, bringing the latest styles in great variety.
Places that display the QTS sign (given to accredited shops and restaurants under the Hong Kong Tourism Board's Quality Tourism Services scheme) are the best guarantee of satisfaction. Bargaining is practised in the smaller shops and side stalls only.
There is an excellent market in Stanley on Hong Kong Island, which is in a beautiful setting in a small village on the coast, open every day 0900-1800. Yuen Po Street bird garden in Kowloon is a market popular with the songbird owners in Hong Kong, selling many interesting creature comforts, including intricately crafted cages, open 0700-2000. Tailoring is first class.
Except for a few items, such as alcohol and perfume, Hong Kong is a duty-free port.
Hong Kong Island (Central and Western): 1000-1900 (1000-2000 along Queen's Road). Hong Kong Island (Causeway Bay and Wan Chai): 1000-2130. Kowloon (Tsim Sha Tsui and Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok): 1000-2100. Many shops are open Sunday. Shopping hours may vary greatly.
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The lively, vibrant spectacle of Tuen Ng (Dragon Boat) Festival is underscored by the beating of heavy drums. It's usually held in June.
The buzz of city life is best experienced by riding the 800m- (2,625ft-) long central-mid-levels escalator (the world's longest covered outdoor escalator) which transports tens of thousands of people each day and has created its own escalator culture of cafes and restaurants.
Hong Kong's longest hike at 100km (62 miles), the MacLehose Trail crosses the New Territories, taking in Hong Kong's highest peak, Tai Mo Shan (985m/3,231ft).
Walk along the Dragon's Back on Hong Kong Island, which follows a ridge, giving spectacular views. This can be concluded with dinner in one of the restaurants in Shek-O Village.
The famous Star Ferry goes to Kowloon from Central, Hong Kong Island's financial and commercial hub. For a different harbour view, take a morning harbour cruise and watch the Noon Day Gun that has fired at midday since the 1840s at Causeway Bay.
Go shopping down bustling Nathan Road in Kowloon. Grab a bargain at Stanley Market. In Yau Ma Tei, stalls set up at 1400 on Temple Street for the Night Market, selling everything from electrical goods to incense sticks.
For an easy ride through scenic countryside, cycle on the Tolo Harbour Cycling Track, running from Sha Tin to Tai Po. Bikes are available for hire near KCR stations. Most outlying islands do not allow cars.
Hong Kong has over 30 highly acclaimed beaches. Excellent snorkelling, waterskiing, sailing, kayaking, windsurfing, and fishing are available. Watersports equipment can be hired from beaches and hotels in Stanley and Sai Kung. One-day island-hopping tickets allow unlimited ferry trips between islands.
The excellent country parks at Sai Kung East and West are home to macaque monkeys, wild boar, civet cats, barking deer and the Chinese pangolin. Watch birds at the Mai Po marshes near Yuen Long in the New Territories and look out for the Chinese pink dolphin near Lantau Island.
Vast sums of money change hands at Hong Kong's horse-racing meetings, held from September to June, Saturday or Sunday afternoon, and Wednesday evening. The two main racecourses are at Happy Valley (Hong Kong Island) and Sha Tin (New Territories).
Disneyland Hong Kong, on Lantau Island, incorporates four themed lands and two hotels. Attractions range from the adventurous Jungle River Cruise to the dizzying heights of Orbitron, where visitors pilot their own rocket.
Join the festivities at Cheung Chau's annual Bun Festival in celebration of Pak Tai (a god that influences good sailing and fishing). Bamboo towers covered in steamed buns are constructed as an offering to the god. Cheung Chau is a traditional fishing island with simple temples and unspoilt beaches.
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