These vtravellers love Israel

jfefferman
 
Overview

Israel means many things to many people. For millions of travellers around the world, this is the ‘Holy Land', spiritually sacrosanct for the three great monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism and Islam. Archaeology buffs, eco-tourists and beach bums all find their own reasons to visit. For others, Israel evokes images of war, suicide bombings and broken peace treaties. However you view the country; Israel is an undeniably beautiful slice of the world, with alternating scenes of sea, desert, ancient towns and verdant nature reserves. 

Israel 's past

Weeding through Israel's convoluted history is both exhilarating and exhausting. There are crumbling temples, ruined cities, abandoned forts and hundreds of places associated with the Bible. One minute you're snooping around the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the next you're amid dancing rabbis at the Western Wall. A short itinerary will leave you breathless. And while a sense of adventure is required, most sites are safe and easily accessible. 

Urban centres

Israel's three big cities each have a distinct character and atmosphere. Jerusalem is forever holy and the domain of the ultra-religious. In Tel Aviv you're more likely to spot latte-sipping liberals, internet entrepreneurs and late-night ravers. Haifa has a gritty industrial feel but, as the world centre for the Baha'i faith, it has an added complexity making it all the more intriguing. From the Dead Sea to the sea grottoes at Rosh HaNikra, there is plenty to see in between.

Israel 's people

Most of all, Israel is about its incredibly diverse population. Jews come from all over the world to live here while about 20% of the population is Arab. Politics are hard to get away from in Israel as everyone has an opinion on how to move the country forward - with a ready ear you're sure to hear opinions from every side of the political spectrum.


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Locations within Israel

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Transport
Getting Around By Air

A comprehensive service linking Tel Aviv with Eilat and other cities is run by Arkia/Israel Inland Airways (IZ) (www.arkia.co.il) and by Israir (6H) (www.israirairlines.com). Flights operate daily except Shabbat (Friday evening and Saturday).

Getting Around by Water

Ferries operated by Kinneret Sailing Company (tel: (04) 665 8008) run across Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) from Tiberias on the west side to Ein Gev kibbutz on the eastern shore. There is no other navigable water in Israel.

Getting Around by Rail

Israel Railways (tel: (03) 577 4000; www.israrail.org.il) operates six lines, with regular services down the coast from Nahariya to Ben Gurion Airport, stopping at Akko (Acre), three stations in Haifa, Binyamina, four stations in Tel Aviv, and five other smaller locations en route. A second line runs from Binyamina and Caesaria to Ashkelon, via Netanya, Herzliya, Tel Aviv and Ashdod. The other lines run from Tel Aviv to Kfar Saba; to Beersheva; to Rishon le Zion. Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are connected by rail along a scenic route that takes about 75 minutes. A new high-speed rail, expected to be running by 2011, will cut the journey time in half. Reserved seats for trains can be ordered in advance. There is no railway service on Shabbatand public holidays. ISIC card holders get a 20% discount.

Getting Around by Road

Traffic drives on the right. An excellent system of roads connects all towns. However, driving is aggressive and there are frequent accidents. Hitchhiking is very common, and is considered normal among young people. However, it requires fine judgments about drivers that may be difficult for tourists to make, and is not recommended.

Bus: Israelis make considerable use of buses, with frequent and comprehensive services linking even the smallest communities. The EGGED cooperative (tel: (03) 914 2000; www.egged.co.il) provides these extensive services, which are fast and efficient as well as cheap. With a few exceptions, services are suspended on religious holidays and Shabbat (between sunset on Friday and sunset on Saturday).

Sherut: Unique to Israel, these shared vans seat seven to 10 passengers and follow the intercity and local bus routes. Prices are around 30% higher than the bus. They run during Shabbat and are useful in getting between cities when EGGED is not operating.

Taxi: Services are either run by companies or by individuals. There are both shared taxis and ordinary taxis. Taxi drivers are required by law to operate a meter, but you may have to ask to turn it on as some drivers may attempt to overcharge.

Car hire: Available at airports, ports and all major towns. Hire fees are not cheap.

Regulations: Speed limits are 50kph (31mph) in urban areas, 80kph (50mph) in non-urban, 90kph (56mph) on a divided highway, and 110kph (68mph) on a designated ‘high-speed road' unless signs indicate a different limit. A roadsign showing a house means you are entering an urban area. The internationally recognised ‘motorway' sign indicates a high-speed road. Speed cameras and radar traps operate and fines for speeding are high. It is compulsory for drivers and passengers to wear seat belts.

Documentation: Full driving licence and insurance are required.

Getting Around Towns and Cities

The EGGEDbus company provides very frequent, inexpensive local services in all the main towns except the Tel Aviv area, where the DAN company (tel: (03) 639 4444; www.dan.co.il) runs the city's transportation system. Taxis are available; they are metered and drivers mostly speak some English. A tip is not expected, and many people do not tip, while others do - 10% is not unusual.

Journey Times

The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Tel Aviv to other major cities and towns in Israel.

AirRoadRail
Jerusalem-1.001.30
Haifa-1.001.10
Eilat1.005.00-

Main Airports

Tel Aviv (TLV)(Ben Gurion International) is 20km (12 miles) southeast of the city. To/from the airport: There are bus services from the airport to Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Be'er Sheva and other smaller towns. The airport has a train station located on level five with services into Tel Aviv. There is also a taxi service (journey time - 20 minutes). A shared sherut (taxi service) is available, charging a fixed rate per passenger. The El Al airline bus goes to the airport terminal in Tel Aviv. Departure depends on El Al flights. The best way to travel to Jerusalem, which is 50km (31 miles) away, is by sherut. Facilities:Banks, restaurants, duty-free shops, general shops, tourist information, car hire desks and VIP lounge.

Eilat Central Airport (ETH)is in the centre of the city. To/from the airport: Buses, taxis and limousines are available to the hotel strip and elsewhere in town (journey time - 5 minutes). Facilities:Duty-free shop, light refreshments, a souvenir shop and car hire.

Getting There by Water

Main ports: Ashdod and Haifa. Foreign craft sailing to Israel may use these ports of entry as well as Eilat and the marinas of Ashkelon, Herzliya andTel Aviv.

There are regular sailings of car/passenger ferries from Haifa to Limassol in Cyprus. The ferry is operated by Rosenfeld Shipping (www.rosenfeld.net).

Many cruise ships also dock at Israel for excursions to Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.

Getting There by Road

Road access to Israel is limited. From Egypt the main crossing is at Taba (close to the southern resort of Eilat, open 24 hours). A ₪68 departure tax is charged at the border. Tour agencies run trips down to Egypt, including the reliable Mazada Tours (www.mazada.co.il).

To the east, there are many crossing points to and from the Palestinian-controlled West Bank, which it is also possible to enter from Jordan via the Allenby Bridge near Jericho, about 40km (25 miles) from Jerusalem. The Allenby Bridge border is closed at night. EGGED buses and taxi services are also available to the bridge from Jerusalem.

It is also possible to travel in and out of Jordan without entering the West Bank. The Yitzhak Rabin (formerly called Arava) Checkpoint crossing to and from Jordan is situated 4km (3 miles) north of Eilat; closed at night. The Jordan River Crossing (Sheikh Hussein Bridge) to and from Jordan is near Beit She'an, in the north of Israel; closed at night. Transfer of bus or taxi passengers between the Israeli and Jordanian checkpoints is carried out by shuttle service. Transfers on foot are not permitted. 

There is no road access between Israel and Syria or Lebanon. Travellers should note that both Syria and Lebanon refuse entry to travellers who have evidence of a visit to Israel in their passport. Evidence can include an Israeli visa, Israeli border stamps or any visa purchased in Israel. It can also include Jordanian or Egyptian border stamps that indicate the traveller crossed to/from Israel. Border authorities will stamp separate slips of paper upon request. 

Jordanian visas can be obtained at the Yitzhak Rabin and Jordan River border crossings, but not at the Allenby Bridge border crossing. Travellers crossing Allenby Bridge must arrange their visas in advance, either through a tour operator or in person at a Jordanian embassy or consulate. Officially, mobile telephones are not allowed on buses crossing any border.

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Essentials

Mediterranean, with a pleasant spring and autumn. Winters in the north can be cool. Occasional light rain in winter is possible, particularly in Jerusalem, though recent years have seen insufficient rain. Snow is rare. Summers can be very hot, especially in the south. The Red Sea resort of Eilat has a good climate for beach holidays all year round.

Required Clothing

Lightweight clothes for warmer months are required. Mediumweights are recommended for winters, although on the Red Sea coast they are unlikely to be necessary during the day.

Hotels

About 350 hotels are members of the Israel Hotel Association (see Accommodation Information below). Prices vary according to season and region. It is best to book months in advance for Israel's high season (usually July to August, though this varies according to the region) and for religious holiday periods.

Holiday Villages

Located on the Mediterranean, these villages provide accommodation usually in the form of small two-bed cabins and bungalows. The standard fittings often include full air conditioning. Most are only open between April and October.

Self Catering

Apartments and individual rooms are available on a rental basis throughout Israel.

Unique Accommodation

Located mainly in places of Christian interest, some 30 Christian hospices (operated by a variety of denominations) provide room and board at low rates. Although preference is given to pilgrimage groups, most accommodate tourists. They vary greatly in size and standards but all offer tourists basic accommodation in situations where hotels are full. Details are available from the Israel Government Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses).

Camping/Caravanning

The fine climate makes Israel a good country for camping, with campsites providing a touring base for each region. They offer full sanitary facilities, electric current, a restaurant and/or store, telephone, postal services, first-aid facilities, shaded picnic and campfire areas, and day and night security guards. They can be reached by bus, but all are open to cars and caravans. Most have tents and cabins, as well as a wide range of equipment for hire. All sites have swimming facilities either on-site or within easy reach.

Youth Hostels

There are about 20 hostels in Israel. They can be dormitory, family bungalows, guest house standard rooms, huts or modern cubicles and they are scattered all over the country in both urban and rural areas. For further details, contact the IYHA (see Accommodation Information below).

Bed and Breakfast

Across Israel, many private families have converted their homes into bed & breakfasts, known as zimmers. Some are simple rooms with a shared bathroom; others are private bungalows with kitchenettes and all mod cons. For details and addresses of zimmers in Jerusalem, contact the Home Accommodation Association of Jerusalem (see Accommodation Information below).

Accommodation Information

Israel Hotel Association

PO Box 50066, 29 Hamered Street, Tel Aviv 61500, Israel

Tel: (03) 517 0131.

Website: www.israelhotels.org.il

Israel Youth Hostelling Association (IYHA)

Binyanei Ha'mah, PO Box 6001, Jerusalem 91060, Israel

Tel: (02) 655 8400/6.

Website: www.youth-hostels.org.il

Kibbutz Hotel Chain

41 Montefiore Street, Tel Aviv, Israel

Tel: (03) 560 8118.

Website: www.kibbutz.co.il

Home Accommodation Association of Jerusalem

Website: www.bnb.co.il

Information is also available from the Israel Government Tourist Office (see Contact Addresses).

Passport Note

(a) Former nationals of Israel holding a foreign passport must have written proof of having given up Israeli identity, otherwise they may be required to obtain a new Israeli passport or renew their original one.

(b) Tourists continuing to Arab countries excluding Egypt and Jordan are recommended to request that an Israeli stamp does not appear in their passport. As of July 2008, foreign passports no longer require entry stamps. Instead, tourists should fill out form 17L, which shall be stamped by passport control upon entry/exit. The form 17L will not be collected upon exit as it is necessary for the collection of tax refunds and proof of legal entry.

Passports

Passport valid for a minimum of six months from date of entry required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.

Visas

Not required by all nationals referred to in the chart above for stays of up to three months.

Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see Contact Addresses).

Visa Note

Nationals are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements if staying for longer than three months or if travelling for business purposes.

Applications to:

Consulate (or consular section at embassy); see Contact Addresses for details.

Working Days Required

Approximately two weeks. Some visas will require authorisation from Israel and so it is advisable to contact the embassy before booking travel tickets.

Health Care

Israel has excellent medical facilities and tourists may go to all emergency departments and first-aid centres. However, any form of medical treatment can be expensive. Health centres are marked by the red Star of David on a white background. Medical insurance is recommended.

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Experience
Food and Drink

Israeli eating has distinctive characteristics, especially the fondness for fresh, finely chopped salads, eaten at every meal including breakfast. In general the cuisine is a fusion of East and West, plus many dishes and flavours brought by Jewish immigrants from all over the world. Most restaurants are moderately priced. Table service is the norm, except at the many low-cost snack bars. Restaurants, bars and cafes catering for tourists usually have menus in both Hebrew and English.

Things to know: The Hebrew word kosher means conforming to Jewish religious laws. The laws include not eating milk, cream or cheese in the same meal as meat and avoiding pork and shellfish (although imitation seafood is common and may be indistinguishable from the real thing).

National specialities:

•Falafel (deep-fried balls of mashed chickpeas) in a pita bread, with hummus (ground chickpeas), tahina (sesame seed sauce) and salads.

• Salads, which include savoury vegetable dishes served cold, such as aubergines.

• Shishlik (charcoal-grilled meat on a skewer).

• Shwarma (slices of grilled meat served in a pita bread with salad).

• Ashkenazi classics like cholent (Shabbat meat stew) and gefilte fish, a white fish dish.

National drinks:

• Soft drinks (Israelis are among the world's largest consumers).

• Fresh fruit juices are very popular and widely available, made from all kinds of fruit.

• The wines of Israel range from light white to dry red and sweet rosé. The best come from the Golan and Carmel regions.

• Gold Star and Maccabe (Israeli beers).

• Sabra (chocolate and orange liqueur). A centre for liqueurs is the monastery at Latrun on the road between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv.

Legal drinking age: 18.

Tipping: A 15% service charge is added to restaurant, cafe and hotel bills by law. There is no need to add any further tip.

Nightlife

There are nightclubs and discos in most cities. Israel's club scene, particularly Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, draws DJs and club fans from the USA and Europe. Tel Aviv has a wealth of entertainment and there are rock, jazz, folk and pop music clubs in all the main cities and resorts. Israeli folklore and dance shows can be seen everywhere, especially in the kibbutzim. Nightlife in Jerusalem is a little more muted but there are definitely a few good clubs, including the legendary Haoman 17 (www.17jerusalem.com).

Particularly prominent in Israeli life are classical music, ballet, opera and theatre, which are mainly based in Tel Aviv. The city is home to 18 of Israel's 35 performing arts centres, including the mainstream Habima Theatre (www.habima.co.il) and the contemporary Suzanne Dellal Centre (www.suzannedellal.org.il). The New Israel Opera (www.israel-opera.co.il) performs at the Tel Aviv Performing Arts centre. The Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra (www.ipo.co.il) can be heard at the Mann Auditorium in Tel Aviv, the Haifa Auditorium, and the ICC Center in Jerusalem.

Cinema is extremely popular in Israel and many cinemas screen three daily shows of international and local films (all Hebrew films are subtitled in English and French). Tickets and even the films themselves can be purchased from ticket agencies and sometimes from hotels.

Shopping

There is a wide choice for shoppers in Israel. Contrary to a widespread belief among visitors, bargaining is not usual in Israel except in the few Arab markets. There are also very animated Jewish markets (shuks) of tremendous cultural diversity, notably the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv. The best place to buy food is at these outdoor markets; the produce is cheap and fresh.

Tourists benefit from a zero rate of VAT (a tax on transactions) on many goods and services. In addition, when buying from souvenir and specialist shops displaying a Ministry of Tourism sign, especially jewellers and luxury good stores, it is possible to obtain a refund of VAT: when making your purchase, ask for a Tax Refund Invoice; then, when leaving the country, take the invoice to the tax refund desk at the airport or port for the VAT refund.

Shopping hours: Sun-Fri 0800-1900; some shops close 1300-1600 and some early on Friday. Remember that Jewish-run stores close for Shabbat from Friday afternoon to Saturday evening, while Arabic stores close Friday. It takes a while to realise that Sunday is a normal working day unlike in Christian countries. For shoppers, Jewish stores are therefore open Friday, Arab markets Saturday and both are open Sunday when Christian stores close. Shops in hotels are often open until midnight.

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Don't Miss

Dead Sea mud therapy

The mudat Dead Sea spa resorts is renowned for its health-giving properties. Go there to slather yourself in it. It's impossible to sink in this ‘sea', which is in fact an inland lake with intensely salty, mineral-rich water, lying at the lowest point on earth.

Mea She'arim

Jerusalem's Mea She'arim district is home to Israel's largest community of strictly observant Orthodox Jews who keep all their East European dress and traditions alive. Go there for a stroll and it'll feel like you're in pre-war Europe.

Eat fresh fish

The traffic-free centre of Jaffa, the oldest working port in the world, on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, is the place to tuck in tofreshly caught fish. Head to one if the many seafront restaurants.

Markets

Fling yourself into Tel Aviv's fascinating Shuk HaCarmel, or Carmel Market, brimming with spices, fresh produce, cut flowers and trinkets galore. In Jerusalem, haggle foranything from bargain souvenirs to real gold jewellery at open-fronted Arab stores along the Street of the Chain, the main market street in the Old City. Side turnings lead into even more exotic market streets.

Desert tour

A trip into the Negev desert is a must-do. There are tours by jeep, on foot or on horseback from the desert town of Mitzpe Ramon and from the Red Sea resort of Eilat.  

Coral reefs

The waters off Eilat are rich in coral and perfect for some underwater sightseeing. Scuba or snorkel on underwater trails, take a submarine tour, or just marvel at the scene through the windows of the Eilat's amazing Underwater Observatory.  

Western Wall

The mighty stones of the Western Wall in Jerusalem are worn smooth by millennia of devotional caresses. You can post a prayerto God by pushing a note between the stones. Make another visit on Friday evening to watch the throngs of people singing and dancing at the beginning of Shabbat.

Orchestral shows

Go to a performance by the Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra, or the New Israel Opera, or one of several other great orchestras in Tel Aviv which draw audiences from all over the world.

Via Dolorosa

The Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem's Old City. It traces the traditional path Jesus walked from judgment to crucifixion. The nine 'stations' along the route lead to five more in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. 

Kibbutzim

These intriguing quasi-socialist communities can be found all over Israel. Many have good facilities for tourists so you can become acquainted with kibbutz life by visiting, or perhaps staying in, one.

National parks and reserves

Israel has over 50 national parks and nature reserves, such as Hurshat Tal, Gamla Reserve andAhziv National Park (www.parks.org.il). As well as a wealth of flora and fauna, many are home to historic sites.

Beaches

There are plenty ofsandy, well-equipped beach resorts where you can sail, surf, swim or waterski or just sunbathe either at Eilat on the Red Sea, along the Mediterranean or even in Tel Aviv minutes from the city centre. 

Hezekiah's Tunnel

The spooky Hezekiah's Tunnel, a 500m (1,649ft) underground passage, looks like the perfect set for an Indiana Jones film. The tunnel serves to bring spring water to the Pool of Siloam, mentioned in the Bible as the place where Jesus healed a blind man. You'll need shorts, sandals and a strong flashlight.

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

Jerusalem's Old City 

Jerusalem's Old City is entered through the impressively fortified Jaffa Gate. David's Tower (History of Jerusalem Museum; www.towerofdavid.org.il), on the right, is a must. Its brilliant displays vividly tell the history of the city. The rooftop gives a glorious vista towards Temple Mount. Explore the distinct bustling market streets, shopping lanes and quiet back alleys of the four very different Old City Quarters - Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian.

Dome of the Rock

The intricately beautiful glorious Dome of the Rock stands high on Temple Mount (Har HaBayit in Hebrew, Haram esh-Sharif in Arabic) in Jerusalem and is spiritually significant for both Jews and Muslims.  

Western Wall Plaza

Encounter Jewish faith and resilience in the immense, animated Western Wall Plaza, below Temple Mount. Go on a Western Wall tunnel tour, which takes you to portions of the wall now buried deep beneath the city.

Jerusalem Archaeological Park

The newly reconstructed Hulda Steps, once the main entrance to the Temple, are in the Jerusalem Archaeological Park (www.archpark.org.il), a few paces from Western Wall Plaza. Its Davidson Center includes a virtual reconstruction of a visit to the Temple 2,000 years ago.  

Wohl Archaeological Museum

Fascinating 2,000-year-old homes have been excavated at the Wohl Archaeological Museum - Herodian Quarter.Six cool, spacious villas and a mansion can be toured, each with a ritual bath decorated in ceramic tiles and collections of household antiquities on display.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Experience Christianity at its most profound, at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, traditionally believed to be the site of the Crucifixion. A complex of different shrines, it is the heart of the Christian Quarter.  

Yad Vashem

Six million Jewish people were murdered in the Holocaust. Pay tribute to them with a visit to Yad Vashem (www.yadvashem.org), Israel's official memorial. The extensive site contains many separate sights and museums - all are deeply moving.  

Israel Museum

The Israel Museum(www.imj.org.il), the country's principal collection of its archaeology and ancient art, houses some of the world's most impressive archaeological discoveries. These include the Dead Sea Scrolls, at the Shrine of the Book.

Museum of the Jewish Diaspora

Music, textiles, reconstructions and film footage at the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora (www.bh.org.il) convey the cultural diversity of the Jewish people during the 2,000 years of worldwide diaspora.  

Jaffa and Eretz Israel Museums

Learn about the 3,000-year history of Jaffa (the world's oldest commercial port) and the city of Tel Aviv (one of the world's newest cities) at the small Jaffa Museum and the vast Eretz Israel Museum (www.eretzmuseum.org.il).  

Caesarea

Have fun while learning about Israel's kaleidoscope of history at the fascinating seafront ruins of Caesarea (www.caesarea.org.il), once a great Roman city, with later Byzantine and Crusader sections. Wander marked paths or visit the Caesarea Experience multimedia presentation.  

Kinneret (Galilee) and Nazareth

The beautiful Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) is surrounded by Christian sites such as Capernaum, Cana, and the Mount of Beatitudes. Nearby is Jesus' home town, Nazareth, now the largest Arab city in Israel.  

Masada (Mezada)

There are breathtaking views of the Dead Sea, the Negev Desert and the mountains of Moab from the ruins of the Palace of King Herod high on the ridge of Masada (Mezada), where Jews fighting Romans made their last stand.

Dead Sea Scrolls

The Dead Sea Scrolls, hailed as the greatest manuscript discovery of modern times, were written by the Essene scribes of Qumran. You can visit their enigmatic site among the caves where the scrolls were discovered by a Bedouin shepherd boy in ancient pottery jars in 1947.   

See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.

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