Tel Aviv

Public Transport

Due to Tel Aviv's increasing expansion and traffic congestion, plans are underway to construct an underground transit system. For now, transport around the city is on the bus network operated by the Dan Bus Co-operative (tel: (03) 639 4444; website: www.dan.co.il).

Many different bus routes radiate from the Tel Aviv Central Bus Station to all parts of the city, including Old Jaffa. The bus service is fast, punctual and economical, with over 300 bus stops situated throughout the city. Most buses follow circular itineraries starting and finishing at the Central Bus Station, 108 Levinski Street (tel: (03) 638 4040), with routes throughout the city and surrounding suburbs. The network is extensive, with almost all buses running through Ben Yehuda Street and Dizengoff Street. Buses in the city run daily 0530-2400 (except Shabbat).

An ordinary single-fare ticket in central Tel Aviv is available for purchase on the bus, whether travelling one stop or all the way across town. Few locals buy these as most people have a pass. If you're planning to use public transport ask the bus driver for a cartissiya, a 25-ride ticket for the price of 23 single fares. It's not a big saving but it is convenient and saves looking for small change each time you board a bus. Senior citizen and students (with ID) can buy all bus tickets at a discount.

It is wise to avoid bus travel during the morning and evening rush hours (0700-0800 and 1600-1800) when there are big traffic jams.

During the intifada, public buses and school buses were the favourite target of the Palestinian suicide bombers and some visitors may feel that bus travel is too risky to bother with. Despite the fact that Israeli bus drivers are highly trained to anticipate and deal with danger, this proved inadequate when dealing with the particular threat of suicide attackers. However, since the construction of the security barrier separating Israel from the West Bank, suicide attacks have been brought to an almost complete stop. Buses remain the most popular and economical form of transport. Nowadays, the risk is slight, but the rule is that anyone noticing anyone or anything suspicious (while waiting for a bus, boarding a bus or during a journey) should always walk quickly up to the front of the bus and tell the driver immediately, even if the bus is moving. All bus drivers speak some English, and it is considered sensible and acceptable to express any doubts openly rather than take even the smallest chance.

Taxis

Taxi fares are controlled by meters based on tariff 1 (0530-2100) and tariff 2 (2100-0530 and Shabbat). Tariff 2 rates are 25% higher than tariff 1. Tipping is not usual and not expected, although a very small gratuity of say 5% is sometimes given. When starting a journey, the driver is legally obliged to activate the meter. Even though this is strictly enforced, a few drivers may claim to offer a better price than would be shown on the meter (the advantage to him is in not having to pay tax on the fare). To avoid being cheated, it is worth asking your hotel receptionist or the tourist office for some idea of what the fare to specific destinations should be.

Taxis can be hailed on the street or by telephone in advance. There are dozens of taxi firms. Reputable companies include Hameshuhrar Ltd(Liberated Taxi Ltd), 94 Allenby Street (tel: (03) 566 1818), and Kastel Radio Taxis Ltd, 18 Bar-Eli Street and many offices around town (tel: (03) 699 3322 or 1296/8; website: www.kastel.co.il).

To distinguish them from sherutim (see below), taxis are colloquially known as ‘special taxis'. The Controller of Road Transport, 8 Hamelacha Street (tel: (03) 5657199), is the governing body for taxis and sherutim, handling all enquiries and complaints.

Sherutim

An alternative to a taxi or bus is the popular sherut (literally ‘service', ie service taxi; the plural in Hebrew is sherutim but visitors should be aware that this word is also used for ‘toilets'). These shared taxis are usually stretched Mercedes or minibuses, seating seven or 12, and they generally follow fixed public bus routes. However, they allow passengers to get on and off anywhere on the journey and may take alternative routes when necessary to dodge heavy traffic. Delays are rare and passengers should board quickly as drivers pull away sharply - both drivers and passengers are very impatient of anyone holding things up. Some sheruts run on Shabbat. Fares are usually about the same as the bus fare.

Driving in the City

The extensive, low-cost bus and sherut service, and the close proximity of all the main attractions, means that driving in the city is not really required - thankfully, as it cannot be recommended. Tel Aviv drivers tend to drive fast, be irritable and impatient - and quick to use the horn. In addition, visitors who opt to drive should beware of such time-saving local tactics as driving on the pavement in order to get in front of other vehicles. Experienced drivers should remain calm and cautious when driving through the city.

Street parking is strictly controlled. Tel Aviv has switched to the EasyPark smartcard system (which was invented here). This in-car electronic device (about the size of a pocket calculator) automatically deducts the cost of street parking from the driver's credit or debit card and can be read electronically by parking attendants. Most locals have one of these devices in their car, but it is also possible to buy traditional parking cards. These can be obtained from street kiosks, post offices and gas stations. This is a strip of paper with punched tabs for the hours of the day; drivers tear a tab to designate the month, day and hour they parked. Various different kerbside colour codes indicate what parking is permitted. Blue and white means parking is allowed with pre-paid parking cards, however, visitors should always check the signs as well for the hours of operation and any restrictions. Visitors should not park where there is any other kerbside colour as they all represent restrictions; many streets in Tel Aviv operate ‘residents only' parking schemes. No line probably means free parking, but visitors should always check for the signs, as parking regulations are rigorously enforced.

There are also informal, unregulated pay-to-enter parking lots scattered about in the city, including by the beach south of Opera Tower and on the approach into Jaffa.

Car Hire

Cars can be hired on presentation of a passport and a valid driving licence - drivers must be over 21, although those between the ages of 21 and 23 may be required to pay a slightly higher insurance rate. Car hire agencies also sell the mandatory insurance required in Tel Aviv (see Getting There by Road).

The main Israeli car hire firm is Eldan, 114 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 1166; website: www.eldan.co.il). It has a user-friendly website accepting secure online payment and offers substantial price discounts for Internet bookings. Other major car hire companies in the city are Avis, 113 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 1752; website: www.avis.co.il), Budget, Dan Hotel, 99 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 524 5233; website: www.budget.co.il), Hertz, Atarim Station, 148 Hayarkon Street (tel: (03) 527 9821; website: www.hertz.com) and Sixt, 122 Hayarkon Street (website: www.e-sixt.com). Most of these companies, and others, have desks in other parts of the city and at Ben Gurion Airport. In addition, most have toll-free booking numbers in the USA.

Bicycle Hire

Bicycles are a great way to tour this flat, warm and dry beachside city. After a campaign by Tel Aviv Bicycle Association (tel: (03) 566 9667; website: http://bike.org.il/taba/index_e.html), the city introduced a number of bike paths and trails. Nevertheless, cyclists are advised to wear a helmet and should be aware of the city's fast, aggressive driving style and severe congestion during rush hour. The Tel Aviv Bicycle Association organises a weekly Friday afternoon group ride in the city and provides information about biking throughout Israel.

Bicycles can be hired from Round Trip, 5 Bograshov Street (tel: (03) 527 5731; website: www.geocities.com/round_trip_il).

Introduction

Although only a century old, Tel Aviv is imbued with the great cultural heritage of the diverse communities that built it. In particular, it attracted refugees from the most highly cultured Jewish communities of central Europe.

The official Tel Aviv website www.tel-aviv.gov.il has a full guide to current and upcoming cultural events in the city. The English-language daily Jerusalem Post and the English version of the daily Ha' Aretz newspaper both include listings and reviews, as does fortnightly magazine The Jerusalem Report.

Tickets for all events can be bought in advance from box offices, ticket agencies and sometimes from hotels and tourist offices. Reservations for several venues can be made at the Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center box office (tel: (03) 692 7777) at 19 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard, open Sunday to Thursday 0930-2030, Fri 0930-1300.

Music: TheIsrael Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (03) 621 1777 or 1 700 703 030; website: www.ipo.co.il), considered one of the world's best, gives more than 150 performances each year and is today housed at the city's superb main concert hall, the 3,000-seat Mann Auditorium, 1 Huberman Street (tel: (03) 629 0193 or 620 0076; website: www.hatarbut.co.il). The orchestra was founded in Tel Aviv by Jewish settlers as the Palestine Orchestra in 1936 in the midst of anti-Jewish rioting by the Arabs. Leading European musicians dismissed from their jobs due to the rise of Nazism fled to Israel and found positions with the Philharmonic. The Indian conductor Zubin Mehta, regarded as one of the greatest living conductors, took over in 1969.

TheIsrael Chamber Orchestra (tel: (03) 518 8845; website: www.ico.co.il) is based at the Jaffa Music Center, 10 She'erit Israel Street, Jaffa. Numerous internationally acclaimed musicians have performed with the chamber orchestra, which has a repertoire ranging from baroque to modern.

The New Israel Opera (tel: (03) 692 7777; website: www.israel-opera.co.il/eng) performs at the Tel Aviv Performing Arts Centre and hosts an annual season there from October to July. Tickets for all shows at the Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center can be purchased by telephone or in person at the box office, 19 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard.

The city has long been the home of many of the world's leading classical conductors and soloists, including Zubin Mehta and Itzhak Perlman, as well as Leonard Bernstein (1918-1990) and Isaac Stern (1920-2001). It attracts guest musicians and conductors of the standing of Lorin Maazel, music director of the New York Philharmonic, and Pinchas Zukerman (a native of the city), music director of the National Arts Centre Orchestra of Canada.

Theatre: Theatre in Israel continues to thrive and productions at the Cameri Theatre (also called the New Cameri since its move to new premises), 19 Shaul Hamelech Boulevard (tel: (03) 606 1900/0900; website: www.cameri.co.il), and Habima Theatre, 1 Tarsat Street (tel: (03) 629 5555; website: www.habima.co.il), are impressive. Every week the Cameri presents its most popular productions with screened simultaneous English translation.

Audiences seeking an alternative evening's entertainment will enjoy the Israeli Yiddish Theatre Company, frequently on stage in Tel Aviv, usually at ZOA House, 1 Daniel Frisch Street (tel: (03) 695 9341; website: www.zoa.co.il). Gesher Theatre, 7-9 Yerushalaim Boulevard (tel: (03) 681 3131; website: www.gesher-theatre.co.il), founded in 1991 by new Russian immigrants including leading Moscow director Yevgeny Arye, specialises in both Russian and Hebrew plays.

Dance: Israel is especially known for the high standard of dance performance. The city's main venue for modern and classical dance is the Suzanne Dellal Centre, 5-6 Yehieli Street, in the Neve Zedek quarter (tel: (03) 510 5656; website: www.suzannedellal.org.il). Home of the Inbal (tel: (03) 517 3711) and Batsheva (tel: (03) 517 1471) dance companies, as well as the popular Orna Porat Youth Theatre, the centre has four performance halls surrounding a square used for outdoor performances. Founded by Martha Graham in 1964, the Batsheva Dance Company is Israel's most acclaimed contemporary dance troupe. Another interesting modern dance company is Bat Dor, 30 Ibn Givrol Street (tel: (03) 696 3175), featuring works by renowned modern choreographers.

For ballet and classical dance, the Israel Ballet (tel: (03) 604 6610; website: www.iballet.co.il) is based at the Israel Ballet Center, 4 Har Nevo Street. Comprising 30 dancers, this much-acclaimed international company performs a repertoire of classical, neoclassical and contemporary works. There is a website that provides more information on dance in Israel as a whole - www.israeldance.co.il.

Film: Cinema is extremely popular in Israel and many cinemas screen three daily shows of international and local films. American films often reach Israel before the UK, giving British visitors a chance to enjoy sneak previews of the latest Hollywood blockbusters. New movies from France, Spain and around the world are also shown. All foreign films are shown in the original language, with Hebrew subtitles. Likewise, all Hebrew films are subtitled in English and sometimes French.

Israel has its own thriving movie industry, focusing through drama, edgy thrillers and even comedies on the pressing concerns that confront the country - the Israel-Arab conflict, integration of newcomers, the legacy of the Holocaust, the religious-secular divide and other important Israeli issues.

Art house movies screened at the Tel Aviv Cinemathèque, 2 Sprinzak (or Shprintzak) Street (tel: (03) 691 7181) are mostly subtitled in English. The cinematèque screens premieres of short and full-length Israeli films every evening and also holds a variety of film festivals including the Festival of Animation, Comics and Caricatures, the Student Film Festival, the Jazz, Film and Videotape Festival and Salute to Israeli Cinema. There are several multiscreen cinemas around town, for example on both the top floor and in the basement of the Dizengoff Centre. New films always start showing on Thursdays. Current movie listings can be seen in Ha'aretz and the Jerusalem Post.

Literary Notes: Haim Nahman Bialik (1873-1934) is celebrated as the first Hebrew literary figure of the modern age. Israel's national poet, he was also an essayist and a champion of the Hebrew language. In the City of Slaughter (1904) was acclaimed as a powerful statement of anguish at the situation of the Jews during the early part of the 20th century. His renovated house at 22 Bialik Street (tel: (03) 525 4530) is now a museum.

Shmuel Yosef Agnon (1888-1970) was the first Hebrew writer to win the Nobel Prize for Literature (1966). His themes concern Jewish history and the Jewish inner conflicts between faith and rationality, tradition and modernity. He was fascinated by language and used many words of his own invention.

More recently, In the Land of Israel (1982) and the autobiographical A Time of Love and Darkness (2005), both by internationally acclaimed author Amos Oz (1939-), are timeless poignant works, drawing from his family's history and personal encounters with religious Jews, Palestinians and new immigrants to convey the dilemmas of Jewish identity and the plight of the Israeli people. Most of Oz's work is set in the neighbourhood where he grew up. Almost rivalling Oz in his collection of international accolades is David Grossman (1954-), many of whose books are for teenagers or about the difficulties of growing up in Israel. Grossman's See Under: Love (1997) is a heartfelt novel, whose central character Momik is the only child of two Holocaust survivors, confronting the darkness of his ancestry. His novels have drawn comparison to Gabriel García Márquez for their sombre, yet poetic rendering.

More accessible and more popular than either Oz or Grossman, the novelist, poet, playwright and essayist Abraham B Yehoshua (1936-) also deals in varying ways with the difficulties of the Israelis' situation. His early work having been more allegorical, he moved to a realistic style with The Lover (1975), about the Yom Kippur War. One of his most admired novels, Mr Mani (1993) is a six-generational epic of a wandering Jewish family.

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.