Nairobi

Nairobi
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These vtravellers love Nairobi

Overview
Guide
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Overview

Nairobi is the largest city in East Africa, the region’s commercial hub and Kenya’s industrial and political heart. It is also the region’s youngest, most modern and most rapidly developing city and has enjoyed a relentless growth curve.

Although the city contains the African HQs of a number of major UN agencies, it still has an air of lawlessness. Its reputation for being hard and fast and dangerous means that the unfortunate nickname ‘Nairobbery’ still has a ring of truth to it. The resulting need for a bit more street-smart commonsense often means that people skip straight through the city.

This is a shame though, since Nairobi is a vital and lively introduction to the real Kenya. The safari capital of the world, the city is actually an excellent base for travel and adventure.

Kenya’s capital is home to a fascinating variety of people and the stimulating mix of cultures means that there is a buzz about the place. A cosmopolitan collection of shops, an unrivalled selection of cultural activities and centres, a varied restaurant scene and a definite café culture mean that the city has a surprisingly modern edge to it.

To escape the hustle and bustle of central city life and dodge the worst of the dangers though, head to the suburbs and take advantage of the city’s close proximity to a national park, where wildlife that was here long before the city existed now gazes on skyscrapers.

Nairobi has always been a frontier town and although it remains a little rough and ready, the city still has a distinct appeal, plenty of energy and, as East Africa’s most thrilling and proud metropolis, really ought to be experienced properly by visitors to the country.

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Feature

Guide

Public Transport

Exploring the city is fairly straightforward. During the day people tend to walk, whilst remaining wary of notorious hotspots. At night they catch a taxi. There is also a wide range of public transport on Nairobi’s roads. Nairobi is the only Kenyan city with a metro bus service and is also over-run with matatus (minibuses).

Buses and matatus have a bad reputation for safety and accidents. Government regulations introduced in 2003 are designed to change this, but aren’t always adhered to. Drivers now usually wear uniforms and badges, but often seatbelts aren’t fitted and speed regulators designed to cap the vehicles top speed often don’t work. Official numbers of passengers allowed onboard are often flouted and loud music, banned by the government, is still integral to many journeys.

Local buses are run by Citi Hoppa and the government outfit KBS (tel: (020) 229 707), whose main stations are in the River Road district between Ronald Ngala, Mfango and Uyoma Streets. KBS also have a downtown booking office on Muindi Mbingu Street (tel: (020) 341 250). Buses are numbered according to their route, although bus stops aren’t.

Matatus in town are often white Nissan minibuses. In the countryside they tend to be rickety pick-ups with wooden benches beneath a canvas roof. Despite the risks, they are cheap and often convenient ways to travel. Stations are scattered along River Road. Rates are fairly standardised and there is no additional charge for luggage unless you have a particularly heavy load.

Taxis

Grey, London-style cabs are run by the Kenya Taxi Cabs Association (tel: (020) 222 953). These are reliable and have mostly predetermined prices. Another good taxi outfit is Kenatco, who have branches in town (tel: (020) 225 123) and at the airport (tel: (020) 824 248). All licensed taxis have a yellow stripe. Peugeot share taxis are faster and will go where you ask, but usually don’t set off until full. Haggle hard for fares and always agree a price before starting the journey. Look for them around Accra Road, River Road or Ronald Ngala Street.

Tuk-tuks, three-wheeled motorcycle rickshaws more commonly associated with Asia, have also started to be used for short trips.

Bicycle Hire

Bicycles can be hired from Kenya Cycle Mart on Butere Road, who also carry spare parts and fix bikes.

Introduction

The Kenya National Theatre, on Harry Thuku Road (tel: (020) 225 174), is Nairobi’s main theatre, and lays on classic and contemporary showings of plays, with the emphasis heavily on Kenyan drama. The Professional Centre on Parliament Road (tel: (020) 241 230) hosts the well-known Phoenix Players theatre group, who regularly perform productions by western and Kenyan playwrights.

The GoDown Arts Centre, in a converted warehouse on Dunga Road (tel: (020) 557 5785), is set up to promote contemporary African art, music and dance. There are also workshops, a recording studio and an art gallery here. The more centrally located Mzizi Arts Centre on Moi Avenue also hosts contemporary dance and musical performance evenings.

Other good art galleries promoting African art include the privately owned Gallery Watatu on Standard Street (tel: (020) 228 737; website: www.gallerywatatu.com) and the Rahimtulla Museum of Modern Art(Ramoma) on Upper Hill Road (tel: (020) 729 181).

Cinemas showing the latest releases include the NuMetro Cinema, Village Market, Gigiri(tel: (020) 522 128), Fox Cineplex in the Sarit Centre in Westlands (tel:(020) 227 959) and Odeon on Latema Road.