It’s not just mountaineers with their hearts set on conquering Everest who fall in love with the Himalayan country of Nepal. With stunning scenery, fringed by the highest peaks on the planet, leading down to steamy jungle packed with wildlife, there’s something for everyone.
In addition to a distinctive ancient Hindu and Buddhist culture, Nepal has jaw-dropping mountains with spectacular scenery for walkers and trekkers. If there is a hikers’ paradise, this is it, with picturesque mountain villages linked by hundreds of trails that have been used for centuries, with little change noticeable even today. Trails are dotted with intriguing temples to discover on the way.
Nepal was created from an amalgam of principalities in 1768 under King Prithvi Narayan Shah. Under the control of a hereditary king, it became a ‘buffer state’ between the British Empire and territories to the north. The country became independent in 1923, but it was not until 1947 (the year of Indian independence) and total withdrawal of the British before Nepal achieved complete autonomy. In May 2008, the monarchy was abolished making Nepal the world’s newest republic.
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A network of domestic flights radiates from Kathmandu, and links major towns, from Luklu and Pokhara to Simikot, Jomsom, Janakpur and Bharatpur. Many of these flights offer spectacular views across the mountains. But because of the ever-changing weather conditions, there are often last-minute delays and cancellations. Always give yourself plenty of time to catch connecting flights.
Royal Nepal Airlines(RA) (website: www.royalnepal.com) operates an extensive range of scheduled internal flights including to the trailheads for the main trekking routes. Other domestic airlines, including Yeti Airlines(OY) (website: www.yetiairlines.com), Buddha Air(BHA) (website: www.buddhaair.com), Cosmic Air (F5) (website: www.cosmicair.com), Gorkha Airlines (G1) (website: www.gorkhaairlines.com) and Skyline Airways (SK), provide regular and charter services to popular destinations. Helicopters can be chartered for various purposes.
Note: Air fares must be paid in foreign currency by foreign nationals. Only Nepalese and Indian nationals are allowed to pay in Nepalese Rupees.
Nepal Railways Corporation Ltd operates a freight and passenger service in the eastern Terai. However, tourists aren’t allowed to cross the border on the passenger train.
Traffic drives on the left. The interior parts of the country are linked with a number of motorable roads. The road system is of unpredictable quality. Many of the mountain and hill roads are impassable during the monsoon season (June to September).
Bus: There are regular bus services to Kathmandu from all the border points. Tickets may be booked in advance from hotels or travel agents in Thamel. Buses for the different parts of the country are available at the Gongabu bus terminal, which is located near Balaju. Services are operated by the Transport Corporation of Nepal and by private operators. Deluxe tourist buses are available from Kathmandu to Pokhara and Chitwan. Most of them depart at 0700 near Thamel. Six-seater sumo tato vans, 12-seater vans and air-conditioned minibuses are also available for long distance travel. Visitors should, however, be aware that multiple-fatality accidents on buses are common.
Bicycles and motorcycles: These can be hired cheaply from Thamel, Rani Pokhari and Jhochhen. Motorcyclists require a driving licence. Cyclists should make sure they have a working bell and a scarf to cover their mouth and nose from powerful exhaust fumes.
Car hire: There are no self-drive hire cars in Nepal. Instead, hire a car and driver or negotiate a daily rate with a taxi driver.
Regulations: The minimum driving age is 18.
Documentation: An International Driving Permit is valid in Nepal for 15 days, after which a local licence is required. A temporary licence is available from local authorities on presentation of a valid national driving licence.
There are bus services in the populous areas around Kathmandu, which include the neighbouring cities of Patan and Bhaktapur. A trolleybus route provides frequent journeys over the 11km (7-mile) Kathmandu- Bhaktapur road. Private minibuses feed the trolleybus route from nearby villages. On buses and trolleybuses belonging to the Transport Corporation of Nepal (tel: (2) 12972), a four-stage fare system applies, with colour-coded tickets issued by conductors. ‘Microbuses’ also operate.
Taxi: Metered taxis are plentiful in Kathmandu; at night, the meter reading plus 50% is standard. Private taxis are more expensive and fares should be agreed before departure.
Tempos: These are metered three-wheel scooters, which work out slightly cheaper than taxis.
Rickshaws: These operate throughout Kathmandu. Fares should be negotiated in advance.
The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Kathmandu to other major cities and towns in the Nepal.
| Air | Road | Rail | |
| Lukla | 0.30 | 8.00 | - |
| Pokhara | 0.35 | 7.00 | - |
| Sunauli | - | 10.00 | - |
Kathmandu (KTM) (Tribhuvan) (website: www.tiairport.com.np) is 5.5km (3.5 miles) east of the city (journey time - 20 minutes). To/from the airport: Buses and taxis to the city are available. Facilities: Bank/bureau de change, duty-free shop, post office, refreshments and tourist information.
Two stretches of the Indian Railway (website: www.indianrail.gov.in) line run to the border with Nepal, but only one is serviced with a passenger train. Tourists can’t cross the border by train, but cycle-rickshaws are available for onward journeys.
Kathmandu is connected with India and Tibet by new and picturesque highways.
Bus: A great number of services operate from all border points to Kathmandu and can be booked locally. However, during the monsoon season, landslides can often make border points impassable. Visitors are permitted to drive their own cars provided they are in possession of an international carnet. For information on how to obtain an international carnet, visitors should contact their national Automobile Association.
All visitors entering Nepal by land must use one of the following entry points. From India - Sunauli, between Raxaul Bazaar and Birgan, Kakarbhitta and Mahendranagar. From China - Kodari. If entering overland by car, an international carnet is required (enquire at embassy for details; see Contact Addresses).
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Nepal’s weather is generally predictable and pleasant. There are four climatic seasons: March to May (spring), June to August (summer), September to November (autumn) and December to February (winter). The monsoon is approximately from the end of June to the middle of September. About 80% of the rain falls during that period, so the remainder of the year is dry. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons; winter temperatures drop to freezing with a high level of snowfall in the mountains. Summer and late spring temperatures range from 28ºC (83ºF) in the hill regions to more than 40ºC (104ºF) in the Terai. In winter, average maximum and minimum temperatures in the Terai range from a brisk 7ºC (45ºF) to a mild 23ºC (74ºF). The central valleys experience a minimum temperature often falling bellow freezing point and a chilly 12ºC (54ºF) maximum. Much colder temperatures prevail at higher elevations. The Kathmandu Valley, at an altitude of 1,310m (4,297ft), has a mild climate, ranging from 19-27ºC (67-81ºF) in summer, and 2-20ºC (36-68ºF) in winter.
Lightweight and tropical clothes with umbrella are advised for June to August. Between October and March, lightweight clothes are worn in Kathmandu, with a coat for evenings and warm clothing for the mountains.
Kathmandu has an increasing number of international-class hotels, which are particularly busy during spring and autumn, when it is advisable to book well in advance. Comfortable hotels and inexpensive guest houses can also be found in Pokhara, and the Royal Chitwan National Park in the Terai. A government tax is added to bills, which varies according to the standard of the hotel, from 5-star to the most basic.
Besides the officially recognised hotels, there are a number of lodges or hostels. In Kathmandu, these are located in the old part of the town, in the streets around the Durbar Square and in the Thamel district. Lodges are available outside the main towns, and provide suitable accommodation for mountaineers and trekkers. For a list of approved hostels and lodges, contact the Nepal Tourism Board (see Contact Addresses).
Tel: (1) 412 705 or 410 522.
Valid passport required by all nationals referred to in the chart above.
Required by all nationals referred to in the chart above except transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft on the same day provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport.
(a) All nationals referred to in the chart above may obtain tourist visas on arrival at the airport. (b) Business can be conducted on a Tourist visa for up to 30 days. (c) Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see Contact Addresses).
Tourist: £20 (single-entry); £15 (multiple-entry valid for 15 days); £25 (multiple-entry valid for 30 days); £60 (multiple-entry valid for 90 days). Business: applications can be made on arrival which need to be approved by the Ministry of Industry.
Visas are valid for up to six months from date of issue. Visas are valid for 60 days on first visit to Nepal in a visa year (1 January - 31 December), but only valid for 30 days when national is visiting Nepal for the second or more time in a visa year. Visas may be extended in Nepal at the Department of Immigration, Kathmandu (tel: 494 273 or 337), or the Immigration Office, Pokhara. Maximum stay in Nepal is 150 days in any calendar year. For full conditions on visa extension (including charges and conditions), contact the consulate (or consular section at embassy); see Contact Addresses.
Consulate (or consular section at embassy). Visas can also be obtained on arrival from the Immigration authorities at all entry points (with fees payable in US Dollars) provided travellers are in possession of valid travel documents, two passport photos and the relevant fee. Applications for business visas must be made to the Department of Immigration (see above under Validity for contact details).
Minimum 24 hours if applying in person; two weeks if applying by post.
The most convenient hospital for visitor care is Patan Hospital in Lagankhel. Other hospitals include the Western Regional Hospital and the Manipal Hospital in Pokhara and the Mission Hospital in Tansen. Pharmacies in Kathmandu offer a wide range of Western drugs at low prices. In Kathmandu, you can get certain vaccinations free at the Infectious Diseases Clinic. Full medical insurance is essential.
* A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from travellers coming from infected areas.
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• Gurr (a Sherpa dish of raw potatoes, pounded with spices, then grilled like pancakes on a hot, flat stone ground and mixed with milk, tea or water).
• Rotis (flat pancake-like bread made from wheat or rice flour).
• Choyla (roast, diced water buffalo meat, heavily spiced and eaten with flat, beaten rice).
•Chai(tea brewed with milk, sugar and spices; in the mountains it is salted with yak butter).
•Lassi (curd mixed with sugar in a mixture of sweet and salty flavours).
• Chang (homebrewed beer made from fermented barley, maize, rye or millet).
Legal drinking age: 21.
Tipping: Only expected in tourist hotels and restaurants. 10% is sufficient.
There’s no wild nightlife scene in Kathmandu, but there are plenty of late bars and nightclubs, some with live music, around Thamel and the city’s 5-star hotels. Some restaurants put on traditional Newari dance shows for tourists and there are a couple of casinos. Watch movie blockbusters on DVD in restaurants around Thamel or sample Hindi films at cinemas.
Popular buys include locally made clothes such as lopsided topis (caps), knitted mittens and socks, Tibetan dresses, woven shawls, Tibetan multicoloured jackets and men’s diagonally fastened shirts; and pashmina (fine goat’s-wool blankets), khukri (the national knife), saranghi (a small, four-stringed viola played with a horse-hair bow), Tibetan tea bowls, papier mâché dance masks, Buddhist statuettes and filigree ornaments, bamboo flutes and other folk objects. Find copies and good-quality seconds of walking and climbing gear in Thamel.
Shopping hours: Daily, 1000-2000 in tourist areas.
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• See or climb the lower slopes of Mount Everest, Sagarmatha (’Head of the Sky’) in Nepalese. At an altitude of 8,848m (29,022ft), Everest is the world’s highest peak and has been opened for commercial mountaineering for decades. Don’t forget your climbing permit, however.
• Head for the hills - or mountains in this case: Nepal is a paradise for walkers and trekkers, with glorious mountain landscapes, remote ruins and villages. Trekking season is September to May. Check beforehand if a permit is required, and be aware some treks must be undertaken with an agency.
• Hire a mountain bike to discover quiet corners of the Kathmandu Valley and visit local villages, then catch sight of Everest’s snow-covered peak from Nagarkot.
• Stop on the way up the steep steps to Swayambhunath Stupa (also known as the monkey temple) in Kathmandu to watch the monkeys and have your fortune told by a Tibetan astrologer.
• Go shopping for Tibetan handicrafts and artefacts at the hugely impressive Bodnath Stupa,a centre of Tibetan exile culture, a short ride from central Kathmandu. Alternatively, visit the lively bazaar in the hill town of Gorkha , the ancestral home of the Shah Dynasty and residence of the original Gurkha soldiers.
• Go on an elephant ride in the Royal Chitwan National Park, Nepal’s first national park, and keep your eyes peeled for endangered Royal Bengal tigers and Indian one-horned white rhino.
• Meditate on the teachings of Buddha at his birthplace near the border town of Lumbini.
• Chill out by taking a rowing boat out on Phewa Tal, the mesmerising lake at Pokhara, and get up early to watch sunrise over the Annapurna mountains from Sarangkot.
• Take a scenic flight over Mount Everest. Most of the domestic airlines arrange flights in light aircraft. Flights are also available from Pokhara and other locations west of the capital, flying over the spectacular Annapurna range.
• Try some high octane sports. River rafting is superb here; permits are required for Himalayan rivers. Or go ballooning, hang-gliding or fly a micro-light plane from Kathmandu, Pokhara or the Langtang region. Paragliding and power paragliding are also available in Pokhara.
See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.
• Enjoy the magic of Kathmandu, the capital and also the cultural, commercial and business hub of the Kingdom. In Durbar Square, discover a wonderful collection of temples and shrines, the old Royal Palace, and the Statue of Hanuman the Monkey God.
• Attend one of Nepal’s many colourful festivals. Holi, in spring, sees everyone splattered with powdered paint and a three-tier umbrella erected in Kathmandu’s Durbar Squarebefore being taken down and set alight. Indra Jatra, in autumn, includes an appearance by the Kumari Devi, Nepal’s living goddess.
• Stretch your legs on the short steep walk from Bandipur, south of Pokhara, to visit the Thani Mai Temple. The architecture is stunning around the perfectly preserved Newari village. Even more impressive are the Himalaya views, particularly spectacular at sunset.
• Before heading on to Pokhara, take time to visit Siddha Gufa, the largest cave in the country with spectacular limestone formations, just outside Bandipur.
• In Bhaktapur (the ‘Temple City’), have a look at unusual, colourful animal paintings in the National Art Gallery, located in the old Malla Palace.Other museums include the National Woodworking Museum, showing fine examples of renowned Newari woodcarving, and the Brass and Bronze Museum.
• In Patan,discover ancient historic and artistic landmarks, including Patan Durbar Square (also the location for the interesting Patan Museum), Krishna Mandir, the Royal Bath, the Kumbheshwor Temple and the Golden Temple. See exotic South Asian animals in the Jawalakhel Zoo.
• Take a more leisurely route along the Sapt Kosi River as it flows through the Koshi Tappu Reserve, and look out for gangetic dolphins.
• Go to Pashputinath to see the sadhus, or wandering Hindu holy men, who make pilgrimages to the ghats and holy waters.
• Visit the Shrine of Ganesh the Elephant God, reputed to bring good luck. There are four Ganesh temples in the valley, each a masterpiece of Nepalese architecture - one in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, one in Chabahil, one in Chobarand one near Bhaktapur.
See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.
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I went to Nepal a few years ago and spent 3 months as a volunteer over there. The entire time was one amazing experience after another.
Obviously the big attraction and most people reason for ever even thinking of going to Nepal is the phenomenal Himalayas that loom menacing and beautifully in the background to a lot of the country.
We all know that Everest is the highest mountain the world but when you see these mountains from the ground up it’s hard to believe just how large they actually are. Everyone knows a mountain is big but not this big. Snowdon and Ben Nevis seem like small hills. The Himalayas are a wonderful sight to see and one that will stay burnt in the imagination for a long time after but Nepal is about a lot more than just this. One word of warning, visit Nepal at the right time of year, otherwise you may not see a mountain due to the low level haze that covers the country.
Amongst others I also visited two other amazing places whilst there. Chitwan and Pokhara. Chitwan is an amazing national park and looks more like something you would get in Africa, not South Asia. It’s a huge jungle with many things to see and do. If you’re lucky you might wild tigers there which are rare to see. You may also see golf ball sized hail stones come flying out of the sky if there is a storm, in which case you want to dive into the nearest villagers’ home and then get offered the strongest “home Brew” you will ever have. That’s what happened to me anyway. After that I didn’t care if I got hit on the head or not. Amazing.
Also there is Pokhara. This is a beautiful area and has the Phewa Tal lake to row out of whilst being serenaded by the Annapurna region of mountains. You need to see it to believe it. The views are the types of images that postcards are made of and that’s exactly what they have done.
In Kathmandu, the capital, there is a host of things to do and see. Thamel is the main tourist area and has everything you could want. Restaurants, clubs, bars, endless shops, confusing alleys and streets……oh and people everywhere. It’s busy to say the least but always entertaining and good fun.
All in all Nepal is another place to visit that isn’t generally in the summer holiday guides.
It’s an experience and an attack on all the senses and possibly has some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere in the world.
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