Cape Town

Public Transport

Cape Town is a frustrating city to navigate, simply because there is hardly any efficient public transport to speak of. That and the fact that there is a mountain right in the middle of the city can make getting around quite a daunting task for the tourist. Cape Town is, nevertheless, equipped with some trains and buses. Metro Transport Info (tel: 0800 656 463; www.mti.co.za) provides centralised information on all trains, buses and taxis.

Cape Metrorail (tel: 0800 656 463; www.capemetrorail.co.za) runs the suburban network of trains, consisting of five routes, which serve four defined areas - Area Ikapa (Cape Town and city destinations), Area North (including Bellville, Wellington, Stellenbosch and Strand), Area Central (including Langa and Khayelitsha) and Area South (including the Cape Flats and the Simon's Town line via Wynberg, Newlands, Claremont and Rondebosch). The Cape Town-Simon's Town route, which hugs the coastline, just metres from the ocean, is particularly spectacular.

Tourists are advised to keep a watchful eye on their possessions, as pickpocketing is rife, and they should also never travel after dark. Trains generally run from Cape Town station daily 0430-1930 (depending on the route travelled), with regular departures, although there is a more limited service at weekends; some Area North routes do not offer a weekend service. There are two fare types - Metro (standard) and Metro Plus (first class); tourists are advised to travel on the Metro Plus service. Tickets also vary in price according to the distance travelled. Weekly and monthly passes are also available.

Public buses run regular and safe services to most destinations - including Camps Bay, Claremont, Hout Bay, Kirstenbosch, Kloof Nek, Sea Point and the Waterfront. However, tourists should probably avoid taking buses to the outlying areas. Golden Arrow (tel: 08012 12111; www.gabs.co.za) has the monopoly on Cape Town's bus services, which run out of the main bus terminal on the Grand Parade, between Cape Town Station and the City Hall. Buses run daily approximately 0600-2000 (depending on the route), with a limited service at the weekend; some routes do not have a weekend service. Bus fares are based on the distance travelled and prices vary accordingly. Tickets can be purchased upon boarding or from the main terminal. 'Clipcards' or passes are also available at the Grand Parade terminal.

Taxis

Metered taxis can be ordered at any time of day or night and can also be hired for day trips. Although the meters are generally accurate, visitors should ask the driver for an estimated price before setting out. There are taxi ranks at the main railway station and at the top of Adderley Street. Visitors should note that the practice of hailing a taxi on the street is virtually unheard of in Cape Town. Besides finding one at the ranks, visitors can call Marine Taxis (tel: (021) 434 0434; www.marinetaxis.co.za) or Unicab (tel: (021) 448 8823).

Wheelchair users and groups of up to nine should request a larger Toyota Venture. Rikki's Taxis (tel: (0861) 745 547; www.rikkis.co.za) provides a more tourist-orientated taxi service in an open rickshaw-type vehicle; they run in the city centre and Simon's Town and will take you out as far as Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens but not as far as the airport.

Minibus taxis

A common sight in Cape Town are the 10- to 12-seater minibus taxis that are the preferred transport option of many a car-less local. These can be hailed down anywhere on the streets and are by far the cheapest transport option.

However, the minibus taxis cannot really be recommended to tourists. Although they are getting more organised and newer vehicles are being introduced, especially on the inner city routes, they still have a bad reputation and safety record. Tourists who do choose to use this service should exercise caution and employ common sense at all times. Tourists should only board the minibuses that have the destinations and corresponding route numbers printed on the back of the bus. A ride in a minibus taxi is often not for the faint hearted as the drivers do not pay much attention to the rules of the road.

Driving in the City

Due to the lack of efficient and safe public transport, many visitors choose to drive. Driving in the city is usually fairly unstressful, as there are good feeder highways, decent signage and efficient traffic lights. The scenic routes and meandering country roads are particularly lovely. However, the characteristic Cape Town repose seems to dissolve once the locals are behind the wheel and driving can be hair-raising at times. Drivers are almost always accosted at stop signs and traffic lights, by beggars or entrepreneurs flogging everything from newspapers and roses to bin liners.

Rush hours are generally 0700-0830 and 1630-1800, when some routes heading out of the city, particularly De Waal Drive, become quite congested. Getting into the city from the southern suburbs can be quite an adventure for the uninitiated. A preferred route into the city centre is via Main Road, which feeds into the city centre all the way from Wynberg, through Observatory, Woodstock and Salt River into Cape Town. Although fairly straightforward, here drivers have to keep an eye out for minibus taxis. It is not advisable for drivers to attempt to challenge the minibus taxi drivers, as this can be dangerous.

Parking is plentiful around the city, with almost every mall equipped with indoor parking. Central car parks are located on Strand Street, the Grand Parade and Plein Street. In many free open parking lots, uniformed parking security guards will look after cars for a tip.

The kerbside parking bays are managed by parking marshals, who have hand-held machines, which record the vehicle's registration number, the number of the parking bay and the time of the driver's arrival. There are two methods of payment; cash or by City Card,which are purchased from the parking marshals and can be topped up with any amount when necessary. The system is in operation Monday to Saturday during office hours; parking is free of charge after 1800.

Car Hire

A hired car is often the visitor's preferred mode of transport in Cape Town, especially for excursions to outlying areas. Hotels can arrange car hire, while all major car hire companies have booths at the airport.

Some of the many major car hire companies include Avis (tel: 0861 021 111; www.avis.co.za), Budget (tel: (021) 398 0123; www.budget.co.za), Europcar (tel: 0800 011 344; www.europcar.co.za), Hertz (tel: 0861 600 136; www.hertz.co.za) and Tempest Sixt (tel: 08683 67378; www.tempestcarhire.co.za).

Insurance is sometimes included in the rates but is usually offered as an optional extra and is highly recommended. Drivers must be at least 23 years old and have a credit card and an International Driving Licence (unless the driver's national licence is printed in English and bears a photograph of the holder).

Introduction

There are many influences at work in Cape Town, which makes the city a particularly interesting one for the arts. Like many other South African cities, Cape Town has endured a turbulent cultural ride over the past decade, as the cultural voice of the city has slowly made itself heard over the clamour of inequality and long-standing prejudices. The large cultural organisations so reminiscent of the past have successfully diversified and everywhere small projects and artistic developments pop up to thrill and entertain everyone - hilarious comedy acts, large-scale operas, art exhibitions, intimate theatre performance and poetry readings can all be found in a number of venues.

Cape Town's two biggest contributions to South African society have probably been in the fine arts and in the unique Cape jazz style, epitomised by musicians like Abdullah Ibrahim, Basil ‘Manenberg' Coetzee and Robbie Jansen.

The city's two major cultural centres are the Baxter Theatre Centre, Main Road, Rondebosch (tel: (021) 685 7880; www.baxter.co.za), and the Artscape Theatre Centre, 1-10 DF Malan Street, Foreshore (tel: (021) 421 7839; www.artscape.co.za). Tickets for Artscape events are also available through Artscape Dial-A-Seat (tel: (021) 421 7695).

Listings information can be found in the Friday editions of the daily press - The Cape Argus and Cape Times. These are both subsidiaries of The Independent and listings also can be found online (www.tonight.co.za). The bi-monthly Cape Etc and monthly SA Citylife publications are excellent sources of information and listings for Cape Town's nightlife. The Mail & Guardian (www.mg.co.za) also has cultural listings for Cape Town. Tickets for all major cultural events can be booked through the national booking system Computicket (tel: 08391 58000; www.computicket.com), which also has kiosks in the large shopping malls including Victoria Wharf at the V&A Waterfront

Music: The Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (021) 410 9809; www.cpo.org.za) performs regularly at the City Hall, Grand Parade (tel: (021) 465 2029), and the Artscape Theatre Centre (see above), as well as various other venues - details are published in the local press. The Artscape Theatre Centre (see above) opera house features regular opera from the groundbreaking Cape Town Opera (tel: (021) 410 9807; www.capetownopera.co.za), famous for successfully ‘Africanising' the classics. Both the Artscape and Baxter venues (see above) host classical music, jazz and popular music. Regular performances also take place at the South African College of Music, off Woolsack Drive, Rosebank (tel: (021) 650 2626; www.uct.ac.za/depts/sacm).

Further afield, the Spier complex, Lynedoch Road, Stellenbosch (tel: (021) 809 1111; www.spierarts.co.za), one of the oldest wine cellars in the country, is now well established as one of the Cape's major performing arts and music centres, largely thanks to the annual summer festival taking place in the large outdoor amphitheatre from November to March.

Theatre: Besides the Baxter and Artscape venues (see above), which both host regular and varied theatrical productions and stand-up comedy acts, the Theatre on the Bay, 1 Link Street, Camps Bay (tel: (021) 438 3301; www.theatreonthebay.co.za), is the city's other major theatre, staging popular and contemporary theatre, as well as cabaret and music.

Dance: Cape Town's premier contemporary dance company, Jazzart (tel: (021) 410 9848 or 9828; www.jazzart.co.za), stages regular performances at Artscape Theatre Centre(see above) and other venues. Visiting national and international dance and ballet troupes frequently appear at the Baxter and Artscape venues (see above). The Cape Town City Ballet (tel: (021) 650 2400/4672; www.capetowncityballet.org.za) is based at the UCT School of Dance, Lovers Walk, Rosebank and performs at the Artscape Theatre Centre opera house and the delightful Maynardville Open-Air Theatre, Maynardville Park, corner of Church and Wolfe Streets, Wynberg; tickets for both venues are available through Computicket (tel: 0839 158 000; www.computicket.com).

Film: Although Cape Town has a huge film and television industry, locally made feature films mainly come out of Johannesburg. The South African film industry, although packed with new talent, is yet to receive the necessary funding and attention it deserves to truly take off. Nevertheless, one of the city's favourite pastimes is cinema. Every major shopping centre has a cinema complex showing mainstream movies, either run by Ster-Kinekor (www.sterkinekor.co.za) or Nu-Metro (website: www.numetro.co.za), with advance booking through Computicket (tel: 0839 158 000; www.computicket.com). Increasingly, the cinemas are installing swipe machines for credit cards to receive pre-booked tickets. On one day of the week, usually Tuesdays, tickets are half price.

Ster-Kinekor outlets are located in various shopping centres, including Blue Route, Tokai Road and Cavendish Square, Dreyer Street, Claremont. A 17-screen Nu-Metro Multiplex is located at Canal Walk, Century City. Nu-Metro also provides the big-screen thrills at Victoria Wharf, V&A Waterfront and N1 City, Louwtjie Rothman Street, Goodwood. Art house and independent films are equally well catered for, with Ster Kinekor's Cinema Nouveau outlets located at Cavendish Nouveau, Cavendish Square, Dreyer Street, Claremont and V&A Nouveau, Kings Warehouse, V&A Waterfront.

The Labia Theatre, 68 Orange Street (tel: (021) 424 5927; www.labia.co.za), is the city's oldest and most bohemian art house cinema, which shows more off-beat gritty movies and has a bar and you can take drinks in to the auditorium. The cinema has a second two-screen outlet on Kloof Street that shows more mainstream films. Another popular art house spot is the Independent Armchair Theatre, 135 Lower Main Road, Observatory (tel: (021) 447 1514; website: www.armchairtheatre.co.za).

Although foreign film crews flock to Cape Town, it seldom appears as a definite setting for a movie. The city and scenery are often used, although masquerading as another location. For instance, those familiar with the white-sand beauty of Long Beach will easily recognise the beachscape (particularly the famous wreck) when watching some scenes of David Lean's classic Ryan's Daughter (1970), which is set in Ireland, although partly filmed in Cape Town. Most recently, in 2006, the remake of the Poseidon Adventure was filmed in the city. Possibly Cape Town's most famous and internationally known son, the Shakespearean actor Sir Anthony Sher, was born in Sea Point. Other actors associated with the city include Sir Nigel Hawthorne, who was raised in Cape Town and studied at the University of Cape Town, and cult actor Richard E Grant, who also attended university in the city.

Literary Notes: Ever since Sir Francis Drake described the Cape Peninsula as ‘the most stately thing and the fairest cape in all the whole circumference of the earth', Cape Town has featured strongly in international literature. Most often, the city has been used as a metaphor for the system of apartheid and as a symbol of white oppression in black Africa. However, since the release of Nelson Mandela and the end of apartheid, Cape Town has become a symbol of freedom and democracy, with many of the major political works on South Africa (by figures such as Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu and Govan Mbeki) written in the city.

The writer who has, perhaps more than any other, defined South African literature is J M Coetzee - twice winner of the Booker Prize for literature and winner of the 2003 Nobel Prize in Literature. His novels, which include Disgrace (1999), Foe (1986), Waiting for the Barbarians (1980), The Life and Times of Michael K (1983) and Dusklands (1974), go to the very heart of the South African psyche and delve deep into the political and social landscape of the country. Coetzee was born in Cape Town and was professor of English at the University of Cape Town, before following the white South African trend of immigrating to Australia. Another literary figure at the university is André P Brink, three-time winner of South Africa's premier literary prize, the CNA Award, twice shortlisted for the Booker Prize and winner of the 1980 Martin Luther King Memorial Prize. Brink's novels include Looking on Darkness (1974), Rumours of Rain (1978), A Dry White Season (1979), An Act of Terror (1991) and Rights of Desire (2000). Both Before I Forget (2005) and Praying Mantis (2006) were both shortlisted for the best book on Africa in the Commonwealth Writers' Prize. Jakes Mda is an internationally acclaimed and award-winning Capetonian poet, playwright and novelist, whose works include Heart of Redness (2000), She Plays With the Darkness (1995) and Ways of Dying (1995).

South Africa's premier playwright, Athol Fugard, based his powerful two-man play, The Island (1973), on the political incarcerations on Robben Island. Lesser known internationally but the unofficial king of Cape Town musicals, David Kramer penned a magnificent memoir of Cape Town's darkest moment when he captured not only the grief, hatred and confusion of the relocations but also the spirit and wonder of this tragic area in his musical collaboration with Taliep Petersen, District Six (1987). Kramer has also achieved acclaim for his musical Karoo Kitaar Blues (2002) and has exported his work to London stages.

Another lesser known Capetonian writer who has caught a remarkable and perceptive glimpse of the city is Menán du Plessis: her novels, Longlive! (1989) and A State of Fear (1983) both focus on various lives, perceptions and personal struggles in a politically turbulent Cape Town during the 1980s. On a more factual level, in A Mouthful of Glass (1998), Dutch writer Henk van Woerden documents with clarity and remarkable sensitivity the events that took place in Cape Town, when Demitrios Tsafendas stabbed the then Prime Minister, Hendrik Verwoerd, in the chamber of the South African Parliament in 1966.

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