With its mix of faded Victorian grandeur and coastal kitsch, Scarborough has something of the fun-at-all-costs atmosphere that characterises classic English seaside towns. It mixes frilly architecture, old-style grace and tawdry seaside treats, and buzzes with families in the summer season. It's not just about the seaside though, a stream of theatre groupies flock to the renowned Stephen Joseph Theatre, playwright Alan Ayckbourne's base.
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Scarborough tends to attract those looking for a quiet seaside retreat. Families enjoy the two stretches of golden sand and theatre fans flock here to catch the fantastic premieres from resident playwright Alan Ayckbourne.
Scarborough is situated on the northeast coast of England in North Yorkshire. The town rises from the beach, steeply northward and westward from the harbour to limestone cliffs.
The climate is temperate with warm summers and cool, wet winters. The hottest months of the year, and the best time for hitting the beach, are from June to September, with temperatures reaching an average high of 26°C (78°F) in August. However, English summers are often unreliable and rainfall can be frequent throughout the year, so always remember to pack a jumper in case skies become overcast.
Scarborough's two golden beaches are divided by its castle-mounted headland. Both are gentle sandy arcs with lots of facilities: North Bay and South Sands. Blue Flag North Bay has the bulk of the amusements and seaside kitsch, while South Sands retains more of its old-fashioned character.
You're only 37km (23 miles) from Castle Howard, the magnificent stately home that starred in the TV version of Brideshead Revisited. It was designed by Sir John Vanbrugh, who worked with Nicholas Hawksmoor to create a house of unparalleled theatrical splendour.
There is lots of bucket-and-spade fun on the beach, with seaside treats from donkey rides to speedboat trips in summer. Victorian funicular lifts make scaling Scarborough's steep cliffs fun from February to October. A miniature railway runs to the Sea Life Centre & Marine Sanctuary at the end of North Bay, a recommended aquarium that does important work in rescuing seals. Surfers can hire gear and talk waves at the Secret Spot Surf Shop. Up on the headland you can visit the impressive Scarborough Castle.
Scarborough has a range of shops selling everything from antiques to surfing equipment. For high street names head to the Brunswick Shopping Centre in the town centre. Scarborough Market Hall and Vaults (St Helens Square) is a traditional indoor market selling antiques, arts and crafts.
Scarborough is no ordinary seaside resort, but the home of a national treasure, playwright Alan Ayckbourne. All his plays premiere here, so if you're in luck you can start your night on the tiles with an examination of the modern middle class at the acclaimed Stephen Joseph Theatre (www.sjt.uk.com). If not, and it's a Monday, catch a play at what is probably one of the smallest theatres in the world; a curtained-off corridor at Indigo Alley, a cheery pub. On other nights you'll be able to hear jazz and blues here.
Scarborough is no culinary haven, but offers seaside staples such as fish and chips and burgers. There are also cafes and Chinese, Indian and British restaurants. Somewhere definitely worth a try is the award-winning Peppers Restaurant (dinner only) at the Stephen Joseph Theatre, which makes the most of fresh local seasonal produce and offers some delicious homely British classics. Most notable are the two places where you can eat in 19th-century splendour: the first, Bonnet (38-40 Huntriss Row), is ideal for a cream tea, while the Golden Grid (4 Sandside) offers the opportunity to dine on fish and chips in a room resplendent with white starched tablecloths.
It's easy enough to get around Scarborough on foot, and the Victorian funicular lifts (open February to October) make the steep journey from the beach to the town easier. Regular trains connect the city with Hull, Leeds and York, and there are lots of buses along the coast and farther afield.
Scarborough is sat on the fringes of the North York Moors National Park, where you can discover towering sea-cliffs, sandy beaches, ancient woodland, pretty villages, historic sites as well as interesting wildlife. Walkers and cyclists will enjoy the Cleveland Way National Trail, and there are walks suitable for all.
Leeds Bradford International Airport (LBA)
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