Devon is a place of childhood idylls, surfer dudes and cream teas, of quaint villages and cheesy clubs, beach bums and lobster pots. Sidmouth, east of Torbay and on the ever-popular south coast, is a quieter option than its westerly neighbours, with a slower, less showy pace, combining picturesque gentility and sedate senility.
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Anyone looking for a slower pace of life will love the laidback vibe of Sidmouth, with its pretty pastel buildings and delicious cream teas.
Sidmouth is situated in the southwest of England on the south Devon coast. The large town of Exeter lies approximately 10km (6 miles) to the west. Plymouth City Airport is around 60km (37 miles) to the west and has daily flights to London and other major UK cities.
The climate is temperate with warm summers and cool wet winters. The hottest months of the year, and the best time for hitting the beach, are from June to September, with temperatures reaching an average high of 26°C (78°F) in August. However, English summers are often unreliable and rainfall can be frequent throughout the year, so always remember to pack a jumper in case skies become overcast.
The main town beach is 1.6km (1 mile) long, pebbly and nicely maintained. Nestled against red sandstone cliffs, the stones give way to golden sands at low tide. To the west is Jacob's Ladder, a shingle and sand stretch, backed by more russet cliffs. The latter is popular with families, and you can hire a beach hut for the day.
The nearby fishing village of Beer is a picturesque combination of flint-faced cottages and brightly coloured boats. It is sandwiched between startlingly white headlands and is famous for its quarries and its shady smuggling history.
At low tide Sidmouth's golden sands are perfect for building sandcastles, while rock pools are great crabbing territory. Sidmouth Sailing Club (tel: (01395) 512 286) offers sailing lessons. Backed by pastel Regency buildings, the esplanade cries out for a genteel stroll. For something more vigorous, climb up Peak Hill and appreciate the views. If in the mood for something cosmic, there's a planetarium at Norman Lockyer's Observatory. In the surrounding countryside, you can go llama trekking with Peak Hill Llamas - guided walks that involve loveable herds of llamas, beautiful coastal scenery and Devon cream teas.
In keeping with the restrained nature of the resort, shops are bijou and tasteful. Take, for example, The Secret Garden, which sells an eclectic mix of antiques, furniture and gifts, including hand-painted furniture, elegant crystal lamps, and products made from Caprafiba wool. Goviers has sold fine china and glass since 1904, and you can also pick up crumbly Devon fudge at Roly's Fudge Pantry (24 Fore Street).
On a summer's day, a typically sedate Sidmouth evening out might commence with hearing the Town Brass Band in Connaught Gardens. There are plenty of traditional pubs and Radway Inn (1 Radway Place) has regular live music of a blues and folk bent.
Like elsewhere on the coast, seafood is Sidmouth's speciality, and in true Devon fashion there are plenty of tea shops where you can go in search of the perfect cream tea. Good places for fresh fish include Neil's Restaurant (Radway Place), where you can feast on delicious Beer crab. The Salty Monk (Church Street, Sidford) is an acclaimed bed and breakfast/restaurant run by two chefs, which offers imaginative dishes made with local produce.
You can get around on foot, and there are regular buses to/from Exeter, as well as along the coast, though only occasional direct buses to Beer (see Beyond the Beach).
Aspara spa is a recent, state-of-the-art addition to the seafront Royal York & Faulkner Hotel, where guests or non-guests can indulge in a range of rejuvenating, relaxing, holistic and spa treatments. The hydrotherapy pool is lined in mosaic and Italian stone, and there's also a sauna and citrus-scented steam cabin.
Plymouth City Airport (PLH)
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