Los Angeles

Public Transport

Despite LA being one of the most car-oriented cities in the world, public transport can be a good way to get around. The Metropolitan Transportation Authority (MTA) (tel: (213) 922 6000 or 1 800 266 6883/COMMUTE; website: www.mta.net) operates one of the largest fleets in the nation - 200 Metro Bus lines(buses) as well as four Metro Rail lines (subway). Due to the size of the city, bus journeys can be time-consuming and may involve changing, but if the subway stops where required, it is a very good option. For example, visitors could be whisked from Downtown to Hollywood in just 12 minutes (add another 10 minutes or so if the train is not at the station).

The Metro Rail system of interconnected subway and light rail tracks covers 62 stations over four lines. The Blue Line connects Downtown Los Angeles and Long Beach. The Green Line runs along the median of Century Freeway and links Norwalk and El Segundo. The Red Line connects Union Station, Downtown LA, Hollywood, Universal City and North Hollywood. The Gold Line runs from Union Station to Pasadena.

A monthly, weekly or Metro Day Pass offers unlimited rides on Metro Bus or Metro Rail, or passengers can buy 10 Metro tokens, which can be used for one-way fares on either bus or rail. Many hotels, local convenience and grocery stores and Metro Customer Centers sell Metro passes and tokens.

Downtown Los Angeles also has its own bus system called DASH. Maps and schedules are available on the bus or from a hotel concierge and signs are posted throughout the Downtown area. DASH is operated by LADOT (tel: 1 800 252 9040; website: www.ladottransit.com).

Taxis

Although taxis are readily available and there are ranks at major hotels, they cannot be hailed on the street. Also, the size of Los Angeles makes them expensive and impractical for cross-town journeys. They are more useful for night journeys within one area. There are nine taxi operators in the city (website: www.taxicabsla.org). Visitors should look for the official Los Angeles Taxicab Seal before getting in, as those without it have no legal authorisation to operate.

If travelling from Beverly Hills, Beverly Hills Cab Company (tel: 1 800 273 6611; website: www.beverlyhillscabco.com) and Independent Taxi Company (tel: 1 800 521 8294/TAXI; website: www.taxi4u.com) are the only companies allowed to travel from there to Los Angeles. Taxis can be booked from: Bell Cab (tel: 1 888 235 5222/BELLCAB; website: www.bellcab.com); Checker Cab (tel: (213) 481 2345) and LA Yellow Cab (tel: 1 877 733 3305; website: www.layellowcab.com). All official taxis charge the same rates.

Driving in the City

The distances between LA's various points can seem intimidating at first, but it is relatively easy to get around by car. However, it is hard to get a sense of compass points so visitors should try to plan their journey in advance and get to know a map of the major highways. Freeways running east-west have even numbers, while those running north-south have odd numbers. Most have a name as well as a number; and it is wise to ask for both when getting directions. The Downtown Visitor Information Center (tel: (213) 689 8822; website: www.lacvb.com) can help.

The freeways are well marked, although very congested, especially during rush hours (0700-0900 and 1600-1900). Using helicopters, local radio stations broadcast frequent traffic reports at 0600-1000 and 1500-1900. Many southern Californian freeways have designated fast lanes for HOV's or High Occupancy Vehicles only (also known as ‘car pool') - usually cars carrying more than one person. Visitors should not merge into an HOV lane unless their car has the specified number of passengers, as fines are levied. There are call boxes with free telephones every half-mile along the freeways for emergencies.

There are numerous parking lots and garages throughout the city; prices vary widely. Check garages for early bird specials (before 0900). For on-street parking, however, visitors should read all signs carefully as there is often a complicated system of days or hours when parking is not allowed for street cleaning etc. Illegally parked vehicles are quickly ticketed and may be towed away. A red kerb means no parking; a green kerb allows parking for a limited time; a white kerb is for loading and unloading passengers only. Some streets have metered parking; meters generally take quarters. Meters are generally free after 1800 and on Sundays, but visitors should always check the signs. Many restaurants offer valet parking either free or for a nominal fee; valets should always be tipped US$3-5.

Car Hire

All major car hire companies have offices in the LA area. These include Alamo (tel: 1 800 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com), Dollar (tel: 1 800 800 4000; website: www.dollar.com), Hertz (tel: 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com), National (tel: 1 800 227 7368; website: www.nationalcar.com) and Thrifty (tel: 1 800 367 2277; website: www.thrifty.com). Drivers must be at least 25 years of age, depending on company policy. Optional CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) insurance is always recommended if not already covered by the driver's own policy.

Los Angeles Rent-A-Car (tel: (310) 670 9946 or 1 800 441 7368/RENT; website: www.la-rentacar.com) hires to drivers age 21 to 25. Los Angeles loves classic cars; to hire these or any slightly more exotic vehicle, try Beverly Hills Rent A Car (tel: (310) 337 1400 or 1 800 479 5996; website: www.bhrentacar.com).

Bicycle Hire

Away from the freeways, the city is cycling friendly, with designated cycle lanes criss-crossing the city and running along the beachfront. Hollywood Pro Bicycles (tel: (323) 466 5890 or 1 888 775 2453/BIKE; website: www.hollywoodprobicycles.com) is one of a few stores that hires both road and mountain bikes. Perry's Beach Cafe, 2400 and 2600 Oceanfront Walk, Santa Monica (tel: (310) 939 0000; website: www.perryscafe.com), has bike, tricycle and skates for hire and easy access to the bike paths either side of Santa Monica Pier. Bikestation, 105 The Promenade North, Long Beach (tel: (562) 733 0106; website: www.bikestation.org), which links to public transportation and 53km (33 miles) of scenic bike paths, also hires bikes.

EagleRider Motorcycle Rental is located close to LAX Airport at 11860 South La Cienega Boulevard (tel: (310) 536 6777 or 1 800 501 8687; website: www.eaglerider.com) and has motorcycles for hire, including Harley Davidsons, as well as motorcycle guided tours.

Introduction

Los Angelenos are often pictured as cultural lightweights, obsessed with TV and the movies, but as in any multicultural metropolis, there is a diverse and thriving cultural scene that encompasses music, theatre, dance and opera. The city's leading light is the Performing Arts Center of Los Angeles County otherwise known as Music Center, 135 North Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 972 7211; website: www.musiccenter.org). In the heart of Downtown, Music Center is made up of four separate venues: the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion(host for many years to the Oscars ceremony), the Mark Taper Forum, Ahmanson Theater and the Walt Disney Concert Hall, 111 South Grand Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.laphil.com).

The best source of up-to-date information on cultural events is Discover Los Angeles (tel: (213) 624 7300; www.discoverlosangeles.com). Tickets can be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (213) 480 3232; website: www.ticketmaster.com). Other agencies that handle concert, sport and theatre tickets include Musical Chairs (tel: (310) 207 7070 or 1 800 659 1702; website: www.musicalchairstickets.com), Al Brooks Theatre Ticket Agency (tel: (213) 626 5863 or 1 800 341 2766; website: www.albrooks.com) and VIP Tickets (tel: 1 800 328 4253; website: www.viptickets.com).

Music: The Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra(website: www.laphil.org) is one of the best in the world and performs at the Walt Disney Concert Hall (see above), as does theLos Angeles Master Chorale (tel: (213) 972 7282; website: www.lamc.org). The Los Angeles Opera(tel: (213) 972 8001; website: www.losangelesopera.com) performs at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion(see above). Chamber music and performances by distinguished alumni can be heard at the Zipper Concert Hallat the Colburn School of Performing Arts, 200 South Grand Avenue (tel: (213) 621 2200; website: www.colburnschool.edu). The classic summer venue to hear music outdoors is the Hollywood Bowl, 2301 Highland Avenue (tel: (323) 850 2000; website: www.hollywoodbowl.com), with concerts by the Los Angeles Philharmonic, as well as jazz and pop artists.

Theatre: The Ahmanson Theater(see above) stages large classical productions. Smaller and more adventurous productions take place in the Mark Taper Forum, a theatre-in-the-half-round, also at Music Center.

The Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Avenue (tel: (310) 208 5454; website: www.geffenplayhouse.com) stages classical and contemporary plays in a historic building in Westwood Village. The Pantages Theater, 6233 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 468 1770; website: www.broadwayla.org) is an outstanding art deco theatre that hosts Broadway musicals and concerts, while the Pasadena Playhouse, 39 South El Molino Avenue (tel: (626) 356 7529/PLAY; website: www.pasadenaplayhouse.org) is an incredible 1925 Spanish Colonial Revival building. The Ford Amphitheater, 2580 Cahuenga Boulevard (tel: (323) 461 3673; website: www.fordamphitheater.org) is a 1200-seat outdoor space, where works by contemporary playwrights, as well as music, dance and film events take place.

LA Stage Alliance, 644 South Figueroa Street (tel: (213) 614 0556; website: www.theatrela.org), is an association of some 150 theatres; services include LAStageTIX, a half-price day-of-the-show ticket outlet.

Dance: The Joffrey Ballet Company(tel: (312) 739 0120; website: www.joffrey.com) has its main west-coast season in the spring at Music Center (see above). The UCLA Center for the Arts, 4405 North Hillgard, Westwood (tel: (310) 825 2101; website: www.uclalive.org), is the venue for touring dance troupes, as well as the UCLA Dance Company.

Film: The historic Grauman's Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 464 8111; website: www.manntheatres.com/chinese), presents first-run movies. El Capitan Theatre, 6838 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 467 7674 or 1 800 347 6396; website: http://disney.go.com/disneypictures/el_capitan), also screens first-run films. The Egyptian Theatre, 6712 Hollywood Boulevard (tel: (323) 461 2020; website: www.egyptiantheatre.com), shows foreign films and documentaries in Hollywood's oldest restored cinema. Only in Hollywood would you find The Silent Theatre, 611 North Fairfax Avenue(tel: (323) 655 2520; website: www.silentmovietheatre.com) screening only movies from the pre-talkie era. The Pacific Theatres Cinerama Dome, 6360 West Sunset Boulevard (between Vine and Ivar Streets, with DeLongpre to the south) (tel: (323) 464 4226; website: www.arclightcinemas.com), has been refurbished in keeping with its late 1950s architecture and turned into the centrepiece of a three-level entertainment and retail centre, with 15 screens and shops and restaurants.

As for films that are shot in the city, it would be easier to compile a list of those that weren't. Films that capture various different moods of LA include Billy Wilder's Sunset Boulevard (1950), starring Gloria Swanson, and more recently Swingers (1996), LA Confidential (1997) and Colors (1998).

Literary Notes: Los Angeles has inspired many writers and served as the setting for their books and novels. Nathanael West (1903-1940) lived in Hollywood from 1933; his novel The Day of the Locust (1939) is considered one of the best about Los Angeles. The Loved One (1948) by Evelyn Waugh and After Many a Summer Dies the Swan (1938) by Aldous Huxley were both set in LA. F Scott Fitzgerald's The Last Tycoon (1941-), his final unfinished masterpiece, was also set in LA.

LA has attracted many detective writers over the years. Raymond Chandler (1888-1959) lived in LA, and his most famous character, Philip Marlowe, explores the dark side of the city, in such novels as The Big Sleep (1939) and Farewell My Lovely (1940). Raymond Chandler's Los Angeles by Elizabeth Ward and Alain Silver is an enlightening look at the author's relationship with the city. Another detective writer James Ellroy was born in LA in 1948 and the city inspired his LA Quartet of novels - Clandestine (1982), Black Dahlia (1987), LA Confidential (1990) and White Jazz (1992). William Harrington created another LA detective, Columbo (not from TV). Some novels in the series include The Helter Skelter Murders (1994), The Hoffa Connection (1995) and The Game Show Killers (1996).

Other novels about LA include Joan Didion's Play It As It Lays (1970), Alison Lurie's The Nowhere City (1965), Walter Mosley's Black Betty (1994) and William Penn's The Absence of Angels (1995).

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.