Miami today is a city full of emotion, colour and texture. It is hot, sexy and affects all the senses, a strong reflection of its growing Latin culture. Hardly the brash, drug-ridden crime capital of America that was made famous in the 1980s television series Miami Vice, today's booming metropolis has since been dubbed ‘America's Casablanca,' the ‘Magic City' and, more recently, the ‘America of the Millennium.'
These various appellations touch on one aspect of Miami that distinguishes it from other US cities - its identity as a truly multicultural American city. It is a gateway to South and Central America and the third most popular city in the United States for international visitors (after Los Angeles and New York). In fact, Miami just might be more Latin American than simply American.
Despite being a city famed for its sunny weather, spicy nightlife and fine dining, Miami had surprisingly humble beginnings. Located on the far south coast of Florida, perched between a mangrove swamp and a barrier reef, Miami was founded 100 years ago, when a tycoon called Henry Flagler extended his railroad to carry citrus fruits from the frost-free south. Development was slow until the Florida land boom in the 1920s. During Prohibition, Al Capone came here when the heat was on in Chicago.
After WWII, the Mafia moved in and later, once Fidel Castro seized power in Cuba in 1959, waves of Cuban refugees arrived. Before long, they had established Miami as the Latin capital of the USA - with later mass immigration in the 1980s as well. The cultural climate the Cubans created in Miami inspired residents of other Latin American countries (Colombia, Dominica, Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, Haiti and others) to seek an escape from poverty or oppressive governments and emigrate. And now, Spanish is spoken as pervasively in Miami as English.
Yet the city is one of America's most ultramodern cities - the second largest in Florida (after Jacksonville) but easily its most exciting, exotic and cosmopolitan. Miami, known as Greater Miami and the Beaches or just Greater Miami for short, includes a number of islands and mainland communities, including two cities - Miami and Miami Beach.
Much of Miami's appeal is due to its diverse neighbourhoods, which range from the big-city, towering skyscrapers of downtown Miami (the commercial heart of the city) to Little Havana, home to the Cuban community, or to the trendy Miami Beach neighbourhood of South Beach. South Beach is probably most recognisably ‘Miami,' with its candy-coloured art deco buildings set against a pure South Florida backdrop of cloudless skies, dazzling blue ocean, pale sandy beaches and swaying palm trees.
Greater Miami is also an international crossroads of commerce, finance, culture, sports, entertainment, transportation and tourism, which is, not surprisingly, the city's main source of income.
The influx of wealthy Latinos from South America is changing the economy significantly. Miami is now where they do business, and even many restaurateurs believe if they have a restaurant in Los Angeles and New York, they must have one in Miami.
The city is changing with the revitalisation of downtown and expensive condos emerging everywhere. As real estate skyrockets, locals move westwards away from Miami's beaches and older upscale neighbourhoods.
The downtown Port of Miami is the largest cruise ship port in the world, which handles more than 3.6 million passengers a year. Besides its importance to cruise travel, Miami Beach is world-renowned for its ‘gold coast' hotel strip, palatial properties and outdoor recreational facilities. Locals give the feeling that nothing could ever be more important than taking a morning run along the beach, sunning oneself or shopping during the afternoon, then dining and dancing till dawn.
Miami's subtropical climate ensures warm weather year-round, with plenty of sunshine - and the lifestyle and vibe here emphasise not work but plenty of play.
The city's real genius, however, is that in recent years, it has successfully absorbed the different cultures of its multi-ethnic population and been influenced by them all - and now Miami is considered a model community for the 21st century and a compelling example of America's changing face.
While there are downsides as a result of its diverse population, Miami is essentially a city founded on the ideals of liberation by immigrants looking for an opportunity to flourish. Now one of the most exhilarating cities in the country, this safe, successful, multicultural metropolis has vibrancy and savoir faire and really is a ‘City of the Future,' surrounded by sparkling ocean and beautiful beaches, year-round perfect weather, colourful and delectable cuisine, and it is a growing mecca for sports, food and culture.
© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.
A Taste of Miami's Little Havana
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Getting around Greater Miami can be difficult, mainly due to the sheer size of the city. Nevertheless, Miami-Dade Transit Service (MDT) (tel: (305) 770 3131; website: www.co.miami-dade.fl.us/transit) provides a variety of useful transport options, including Metrorail, Metrobus and Metromover.
At 34km (21 miles), the Metrorail is the longest elevated rapid transit system in America. It runs from Kendall northwards through South Miami, Coral Gables, downtown Miami and then northwest to the Hialeah district. There are 22 stations (each about a mile apart) and the entire journey takes 42 minutes. Trains run approximately every 10-20 minutes, every six minutes at peak times and every 30 minutes after 2000. Exact change only is placed in the slot at the entrance turnstiles. The trains connect to the Metrobus and Tri-Rail. Transfer to the Metrobus(see below), at the Government Center station or Brickell station, must be purchased at one’s original boarding station.
Metrobus (tel: (305) 770 3131; website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/metrobus.asp) operates a comprehensive bus service with 94 routes, some running 24 hours a day. Blue and green bus-stop signs list the routes and destinations. Exact change only is handed to the driver upon boarding. A transfer from bus to bus or from bus to Metrorail costs a little more.
Downtown Miami is served by the futuristic, driverless Metromover (tel: (305) 770 3131; website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/metromover.asp), an elevated, three-loop, fully automated monorail. This links major business, entertainment and cultural centres, hotels, shopping malls, government buildings and the Brickell Financial District, and also connects with the Metrorail and Metrobus. It operates daily from about 0500 to midnight, every three minutes or every 90 seconds during rush hour, with the outer Loop serving Brickell and Omni operating as one continuous loop from about 1900 until midnight. The Metromover is free to all travellers. It is safe, air-conditioned and it also provides unparalleled views of downtown Miami.
The South Beach Local makes getting around South Beach a breeze (website: www.miamibeachfl.gov/newcity/sobe_local.asp). The bus runs every 10-15 minutes and is very cheap; it is the perfect way to explore the art deco historic district or find all the great shopping bargains in SoBe (the locals’ name for South Beach).
A monthly Metropass allows for unlimited travel on the Metrobus, Metrorail and Metromover. This pass is available for purchase from the Transit Information Center on the second level of the Government Center Metrorail station and at designated outlets (website: www.miamidade.gov/transit/passtokens_outlet.asp). Passes bought in groups of five or more qualify for a discount. Please consult website for details.
Taxis are plentiful but it is not the norm to hail one in the street. They are easily available from taxi stands outside most hotels and shopping malls, although it is more common to telephone for one.
Firms include Metro Taxi Co (tel: (305) 888 8888), AventuraTaxi (tel: (305) 599 9999), Coral Gables City Taxi (tel: (305) 899 9999), South Dade Miami Taxi (tel: (305) 448 8888) and Yellow Cabs (tel: (305) 444 4444). All service providers offer flat-rate fares (including tolls but not tips) from Miami International Airport to popular destinations (see Getting There By Air). A tip of 15-20% of the fare is usual and expected.
Greater Miami comprises 30 municipalities, so familiarisation with the major neighbourhoods is extremely helpful for drivers. Coral Gables (actually a city in itself), Coconut Grove and Little Havana are the popular neighbourhoods in Miami, as well as the downtown area. Miami Beach, a city distinct from Miami, situated to the east, has the lively beachside and shopping centre of South Beach. Visitors should also note that Miami is divided into quadrants. Flagler Street runs east-west, thus dividing the city into north and south sections, while Miami Avenue runs north-south, splitting the city into east and west sections. Most Miami addresses refer to these quadrants.
Highway interchanges can be very confusing, so visitors should be sure to read the signs carefully. Main routes include the major east-west expressway State Road 836 (also called the Dolphin Expressway), which leads from Miami International Airport to the major north-south I-95 expressway and onto Miami Beach via I-195. Four main causeways link Miami and Miami Beach and, once there, the A1A (Collins Avenue) is the main thoroughfare running parallel to the coast. The orange ‘sun’ signs visible on selected highways identify official tourist routes - to Coral Gables, Coconut Grove, downtown Miami, Key Biscayne, Miami Beach and the Port of Miami, as well as to Fort Lauderdale, Orlando and Key West.
Construction is all-pervasive in booming Miami. Drivers should look for ‘smart’ signs, which convey alternate routes and warnings, and also keep an eye out for construction-induced potholes in torn-up areas. Greater Miami traffic can be terrible; cars can come to an absolute standstill along Ocean Drive and Collins Avenue in South Beach during weekday rush hour and weekend nights. Visitors should be aware that short-tempered drivers are as prolific as road construction signs.
There is plenty of metered parking available in Miami but not elsewhere. Visitors should check displayed information for rates and hours of operation. The average rates for parking meters range from US$0.50 to US$1.00 per hour. On weekends, parking garages fill up with shoppers during the day and clubbers during the night, especially in Miami Beach and Coconut Grove. Further information on locations of car parks, hours and rates is available from the Miami Parking System, 190 NE Third Street, in downtown Miami (tel: (305) 373 6789; website: www.miamiparking.com).
Hiring a car is relatively straightforward. Drivers must be over 25 years old and possess a valid national driving licence and a credit card to hold a deposit of at least US$500. When arranging car hire, visitors should enquire about an all-inclusive rate and ask how this compares to the regular daily rate. An all-inclusive rate should include all taxes, airport fees and car-handling fees. CWD (also known as LDW), which makes the hire company, rather than the driver, responsible for damage to the car, and SLI (supplementary liability insurance), also sometimes called top-up liability insurance or EP (extended protection), increases third-party liability coverage. All-inclusive rates may also include a tank of petrol and additional drivers. There is usually an extra charge for child seats.
It is worth shopping around for the best rates as these vary considerably. Convertible cars for travel in sunny Miami start at a higher rate than standard vehicles. Free one-way drop-offs are normally possible within Florida, although rarely with the cheapest cars.
Major providers include Alamo (tel: (305) 633 6076; website: www.alamo.com), Avis (tel: (305) 341 0936; website: www.avis.com), Budget (tel: (305) 871 3053; website: www.drivebudget.com), Hertz (tel: (305) 871 0300; website: www.hertz.com), Interamerican (tel: (305) 635 3060; website: www.interamerican.com), and Thrifty (tel: (877) 283 0898; website: www.thrifty.com).
While Miami has busy thoroughfares, Miami Beach has smaller neighbourhood streets so most hire outlets are in bike-friendly Miami Beach. They include the Miami Beach Bicycle Center, 601 Fifth Street (tel: (305) 674 0150) and Mangrove Cycles, 260 Crandon Boulevard, Key Biscayne (tel: (305) 361 5555). Visitors should ask for a sturdy U-type or Kryptonite lock as bicycle theft is common, and wear a helmet.
As home to the Florida Grand Opera, the New World Symphony and the Jackie Gleason Theater of the Performing Arts, Miami’s cultural life is very much alive and kicking. The local newspapers are a good way for visitors to find out what is on: the New Times (website: www.miaminewtimes.com) or the Friday edition of the Miami Herald are best. An excellent online events calendar (website: http://miami.nightguide.com) also gives daily listings of special events.
Tickets can be bought at the various venues or from Ticketmaster (tel: (305) 358 5885; website: www.ticketmaster.com).
Music: The Florida Grand Opera (website: www.fgo.org) is undergoing a renaissance, entertaining audiences with its repertoire of well-loved classics and lesser-known works, at the Broward Centre for the Performing Arts, 201 SW Fifth Avenue, Fort Lauderdale (tel: (954) 522 5334 or 1 800 741 1010; website: www.browardcenter.org). The New World Symphony (website: www.nws.org), America’s unique orchestral academy, plays from late September to early May in the historic Lincoln Theatre, 541 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach (tel: (305) 673 3331). The only symphony orchestra of its kind in the world, the New World Symphony has been training gifted graduates for careers in music since 1987 and sometimes plays at the historic Gusman Center for the Performing Arts, 174 East Flagler Street (tel: (305) 374 2444; website: www.gusmancenter.org), a renovated 1920s movie palace, which now stages a huge variety of arts events, including the annual Miami Film Festival. The Concert Association of Florida, 1470 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 808 7446; website: www.concertfla.org), prides itself on bringing world-renowned orchestras and performers to the South Florida community at a variety of venues. The Carnival Centre for the Performing Arts, 1444 Biscayne Boulevard (tel: (305) 377 1220; website: www.pacfmiami.org), opened in October 2006, modelled after venues like New York’s Lincoln Centre. It is home to the Concert Association of Florida, Florida Grand Opera, Miami City Ballet and the New World Symphony, with three separate performance facilities to present ballet, opera, theatre and symphonic music. Visitors might also enjoy an event at the Miami-Dade Auditorium, 2901 west Flagler Street (tel: (305) 547 5414); a schedule of events is available by phone or at their box office.
Theatre: The Jackie Gleason Theatre of the Performing Arts, 1700 Washington Avenue (tel: (305) 673 7300; website: www.gleasontheater.com), is Miami Beach’s top artistic venue, showcasing Broadway shows, concerts and dance from the Florida Philharmonic, the Miami City Ballet, the Concert Association of Florida and other celebrated productions. Also on South Beach, the intimate Art Deco Colony Theatre, 1040 Lincoln Road (tel: (818) 558 7000; website: www.colonytheatre.org), hosts an exciting and varied programme of dance, theatre, music and film. Another major theatre is the Edge Theater, now at Miami Beach Botanical Gardens, 2000 Convention Center Drive (tel: (786) 355 0976), noted for its comedies and its 20th-century classics.
Dance: Florida’s internationally acclaimed dance company, the Miami City Ballet (website: www.miamicityballet.org), performs a wide repertoire of classical and contemporary works, at a variety of venues including the Jackie Gleason Theater (see Theatre above).
Film: There are cinema complexes at every major shopping mall. IMAX thrill-seekers will find satisfaction at the Blockbuster IMAX 3D Theater at the Museum of Discovery and Science, 401 SW Second Street, Fort Lauderdale (tel: (954) 713 0930; website: www.mods.org), offering a 300-seat 3D movie-going experience, with a five storey high screen and a 15,000 watt dynamic wraparound sound system. Arthouse aficionados should head to the Bill Cosford Cinema, in the University of Miami’s Memorial Building, Coral Gables (tel: (305) 284 4861).
Miami’s film and entertainment industry has grown dramatically in recent years. Indeed, the city’s old reputation for brashness was built on the television series Miami Vice in the 1980s, and the underbelly of the city still gets full exposure on current TV shows such as the popular CSI: Miami. Miami is now the third largest centre for film and TV production in America. Recent films set here include Holy Man (1998), Something about Mary (1998), The Birdcage (1996), Ace Ventura (1994), True Lies (1994), Get Shorty (1995), the unsuccessful adaptation of Carl Hiaasen’s locally set novel, Striptease (1996), Scarface (1983), Bad Boys II (2002) and Miami Vice (2007). Not forgetting the classics, such as Citizen Kane (1941), Key Largo (1948) and four James Bond movies - Dr No (1962), Live and Let Die (1973), Goldfinger (1964) and Casino Royale (2006).
Literary Notes: Miami itself has little literary history. However, over the years, numerous writers have made Florida their home, in particular Key West. Among them were Ernest Hemingway (1899-1960), author of A Farewell to Arms (1929), For Whom the Bell Tolls (1940) and The Old Man and the Sea (1952); Elizabeth Bishop (1911-79), one of the most celebrated American poets of this century; and Tennessee Williams (1911-83), playwright and author of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1944) and A Streetcar Named Desire (1955). Hemingway (the rough, tough, local novelist) built his reputation in the bars of Key West (see Excursions). The beautiful Spanish colonial-style house, 907 Whitehead Street (tel: (305) 294 1136; website: www.hemingwayhome.com), where he wrote some of his finest works, is open to the public. The contemporary American novelist, Alison Lurie, also has a house in Key West and set one of her novels, The Truth about Lorin Jones (1989), there, while novelist Carl Hiaasen traditionally sets his works such as Skin Tight (1987), TouristSeason (1987), Sick Puppy (2001) etc, in Florida, Miami in particular. Mario Sanchez is among a new generation of Cuban ex-pat writers who call Miami home and brings a humorous and sartorial tone to his acclaimed work Miami, Only Worse (2002).
© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.
Miami is a great place to visit for sun, shopping and partying. Hot all year round; head to South Beach to see the beautiful people and the gorgeous art deco buildings! The News Cafe opposite the beach is a fab place for breakfast (Gianni Versace apparently ate there loads..)-great for people watching.
Great for nightlife, sun and people watching
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