...
A city of Southern efficiency and Northern charm.
~ John Fitzgerald Kennedy
These vtravellers love Washington D.C
Overview
It is hard to believe, but the land on which Washington, DC's elegant National Mall and its stately buildings stand was once a marshy swamp. George Washington created this special district as a federal power hub to avoid the problem of establishing the capital city in any one state.
Its strategic location, with accessibility to the sea via the Potomac River and between the South and the North, made it an attractive site. Originally designed by the French architect Pierre L'Enfant in 1791, Washington is a city of green parks, wide tree-lined streets and very few skyscrapers, all of which give it a European air. It is very much a purpose-built capital, a city of grand buildings (such as the White House and the US Capitol) and impressive monuments (the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial, to name but two).
Congress and the second president, John Adams, moved to Washington, DC in 1800, but it was a further six decades before it began to look like a capital city. In the interim period, foreign ambassadors considered it a hardship posting. Now, this political centre stage, capital of the most powerful nation in the world, is the place to be.
Washington, DC is always in the international spotlight. Occasionally this attention is not welcome, for example, the world's largest concentration of spies lurks around the city. Washington, DC has also had its share of political scandal, such as the Watergate affair, Mayor Marion Barry's imprisonment for drug offences, the Monica Lewinsky affair, the painful struggle of the 2000 presidential elections and most recently, indictments in the Bush administration for the CIA leak in 2005.
The most tragic of events in the nation's capital occurred on 11 September 2001, when a hijacked plane crashed into the Pentagon. Since that time, barricades, blocked-off streets, police and security checks have given parts of the city a different facade.
Washington, DC (Washington to visitors and DC or the District to locals) is divided into four quadrants - northwest (NW), northeast (NE), southeast (SE) and southwest (SW). It is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own diverse culture.
Capitol Hill, beyond the Capitol, is a blend of government buildings, townhouses and speciality shops and restaurants. Foggy Bottom, also home to several government buildings, is now a charming, quiet neighbourhood. Perhaps the most famous is Georgetown, a historic district with elegant 18th- and 19th-century townhouses, home to many influential residents, as well as chic restaurants and shops. One of the most colourful neighbourhoods is Adams Morgan, with an eclectic mix of international restaurants, sidewalk cafés, ethnic stores and late-night entertainment.
After the federal government, tourism is the capital's primary industry. Over 15 million tourists explore the city each year, preferring to see the sights during autumn, spring and summer rather than in winter when it can be bitterly cold and wet.
They are drawn by the wealth of impressive monuments and museums, many of which have free entry. Other important industries located here include trade associations, law, higher education and publishing. The city is also the headquarters for the World Bank and the International Monetary Fund.
Though wealthy on the surface, the city has had problems with a high crime rate, plus high unemployment, illiteracy and drug abuse. In the last few years, it has cleaned up its act. The crime rate has gone down and the city has been revitalised.
It is now chic to live in DC, where power and politics are a heady mix. So much American history is crammed into it. Add to that its wealth of monuments, public buildings, museums and memorials to past heroes and visitors cannot fail to be impressed.
© Columbus Travel Media Ltd
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Guide
Guide
Public Transport
The Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (tel: (202) 962 1234; website: www.wmata.com) operates the Metro system. The Metro is an efficient and comfortable system, consisting of rail and buses, which operates throughout the city providing a fast alternative to the heavy traffic congestion experienced in the city. Information can be obtained by telephone (tel: (202) 637 7000).
Five subway lines (red, orange, blue, green and yellow), known as the Metrorail, cover the city, extending into Maryland and Virginia.
The fare you pay depends on the zone(s) you travel in. There is a one-day Metrorail Pass, which is valid after 0930 or all day at the weekend. A Seven-day Fast Pass offers unlimited rail travel. There is a flat fee (exact money only) on the bus system. A Regional One-day Pass allows unlimited travel on the buses. A combined Metrorail/bus pass allows unlimited travel on the Metro bus and subway.
The Metrorail operates 0530-2400 Monday to Thursday, 0530-0300 on Friday, 0700-0300 on Saturday and 0700-2400 on Sunday. Metrobus operates 24 hours per day but service intervals vary.
A new and convenient way to get around town is the DC Circulator (tel: (202) 962 1423; website: www.dccirculator.com). For the US$1 fare, it is possible to go from Union Station to Georgetown or to the National Mall. The Georgetown Metro Connection bus (M Street Line) goes from Rosslyn Metro Station to Dupont Circle Metro Station via the heart of Georgetown. The service operates daily from 0700-2100.
Taxis
Taxis in Washington, DC are operated on a zone system and are not metered, although there are plans to introduce meters. By law, passengers must wear seat belts. There are extra charges for each additional passenger and a surcharge per person for travel during the weekday morning and evening rush hours (0700-0930 and 1600-1830). An additional charge applies if a taxi is radio dispatched. Tips of around 15% of the fare are expected. Cab drivers are entitled to pick up other fares en route if those people are travelling in the same direction.
Providers include Diamond Cab Co. (tel: (202) 387 6200), Yellow Cab (tel: (202) 544 1212 or (202) 829 4222; website: www.dcyellowcab.com) and Mayflower Cab Company (tel: (202) 783 1111).
Driving in the City
When city planning began under Major Pierre L'Enfant, he could never have envisaged the demands of modern traffic. However, the streets are laid out in a basic grid pattern, divided into four quadrants, which makes navigation pretty straightforward. Streets running north-south in the centre are numbered while letters designate east-west streets. Roads running diagonally to the general grid pattern are named after American states. One must also be alert to confusing traffic circles and one-way streets. Unless otherwise specified, the city speed limit is 25mph (40kph).
The Capital Beltway, made up of Interstates I-95 and I-495, encircles the city. Because this road is frequently clogged with traffic, it is often difficult to cross the lanes to get to the road exit required. During rush hours (0630-0900 and 1600-1830), carpool regulations govern the number of people in vehicles for certain lanes. Certain lanes and even streets change direction for morning/evening rush hours, in order to alleviate the congestion. Unless otherwise indicated, right turns on a red light are permitted if it is safe to proceed.
Parking restrictions apply during rush hours and some weekend hours. Illegally parked cars are towed away to a car pound that is only open for retrieval Monday-Friday. Meter parking is available for up to four hours, although it is normally free on the weekend. In residential neighbourhoods, parking is often reserved for the residents with a specially displayed zone sticker. In some neighbourhoods, it is possible to park for a two-hour period. Though spaces tend to go quickly, free all-day parking is available in West Potomac Park on Ohio Drive, SW, south of the Lincoln Memorial, as well as south of the Jefferson Memorial in East Potomac Park. Parking Guide Magazine provides information on parking locations and costs around Washington. Because of the chronic lack of parking spaces, most visitors use the public transport system.
Car Hire
Insurance is compulsory when hiring and it should also be confirmed that there is adequate Loss Damage Waiver and personal liability insurance. The minimum rental age is generally 25 years but, for a costly surcharge, some companies will hire cars to drivers aged between 21 and 24 years. Customers must be in possession of a valid driver's licence.
Most car hire companies have offices in the city, including Alamo, Washington Union Station (tel: (202) 842 7454 or 1 800 327 9633; website: www.alamo.com), Avis, 1722 M Street, NW (tel: (202) 467 6585 or 1 800 331 1212; website: www.avis.com); Budget, 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE (tel: (202) 289 5373 or 1 800 527 0700; website: www.budget.com) and Hertz, Dulles International Airport (tel: (703) 471 6020 or 1 800 654 3131; website: www.hertz.com).
Bicycle Hire
It is probably best not to attempt to cycle around the city, as the traffic is so heavy. However, there are plenty of enjoyable rides along the Potomac River and around the major sites where it is possible to avoid the traffic.
Better Bikes (tel: (202) 293 2080; website: www.betterbikesinc.com) delivers bicycles to hotels and will provide a map, helmet, backpack, lock and roadside assistance if necessary. A refundable deposit is necessary to ensure the bicycle's safe return. Bike the Sites, 1100 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 842 2453; website: www.bikethesites.com) also do bike tours.
Culture
Perhaps the most famous theatre in Washington, although not necessarily for its performances, is Ford's Theatre at 511 10th Street, NW. It is the theatre where John Wilkes Booth fatally shot Abraham Lincoln in 1863. It is now a venue for musicals, multicultural and family plays and is also open from 0900-1700 for free self-guided tours and historic talks are given every 15 minutes past the hour except between 1200 and 1400.
The city offers a multitude of other choices for theatregoers. The John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, at 2700 F Street, NW, has six theatres and is home to the Washington Ballet, Washington National Opera, and the Washington Performing Arts Society. Tickets for many performances are hard to come by and are therefore rarely discounted. However, it is worth ringing the theatre box office on the day to check the situation.
The main outlet for discounted, day-of-show tickets is Ticketplace, 407 Seventh Street, NW (between D and E Streets), which is open Tuesday to Friday 1100-1800, and Saturday 1000-1700. Tickets for individual performances can also be purchased from Ticketmaster (tel: (202) 432 7328 or 1 800 551 7328). During the summer, there are regular free outdoor concerts throughout the city, for example in Georgetown, near the Washington Monument and by the US Capitol. The Washington Post lists the most up-to-date information.
Music:
The Washington Opera has its home at the prestigious John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts (see above) and has the great tenor Placido Domingo as its artistic director. The National Symphony Orchestra is an artistic affiliate of the Kennedy Center with a regular concert season. As the capital's orchestra, it performs at presidential inaugurations and leads the Independence Day and Memorial Day celebrations.
Theatre:
The National Theatre, 1321 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, one of America's oldest continuously operating theatres, puts on pre-Broadway shows or Broadway hits that are on tour. As a tribute to Abraham Lincoln, the plays and musicals at Ford's Theatre at 511 10th Street, NW highlight the diversity of American life. The Shakespeare Theatre, 450 Seventh Street, NW, presents mainly the works of Shakespeare, as its name suggests, but other classics as well.
Alternative works are performed at The Studio Theatre, 1501 14th Street NW, as well as by the Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company, 641 D Street NW, and at either Theater J in the Cecile Goldman Theater of the DC Jewish Community Center, 1529 16th Street, NW or the AFI Theater in the Kennedy Center. Touring Broadway shows and family entertainment, including comedy, dance and music concerts can be seen at the Warner Theatre, 513 13th Street NW.
Dance:
The Washington Ballet, performing both at the John F Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts and at the Warner Theatre (see Theatre above), has a vast repertoire of both classical and contemporary performances. International dance companies frequently give performances in Washington, DC, both at the Kennedy Center and at the Smithsonian Institution.
Film:
There are several cinemas around the city, mainly showing mainstream films, such as AMC Union Station at 50 Massachusetts Avenue, NE, (tel: (202) 842 3757) Cineplex Odeon Dupont Circle 5 at 1350 19th Street, NW (tel: (202) 872 9555), AMC Mazza Gallerie 7 at 5300 Wisconsin Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 537 9553), and Cineplex Odeon at 4000 Wisconsin Avenue, NW (tel: (202) 244 0880). In addition, there are several places specialising in alternative works, such as the American Film Institute at the new American Film Institute Silver Theatre and Cultural Center, 8633 Colesville Road, Silver Spring, Maryland, which features an eclectic mix of international and American films.
Because it is the US capital, Washington, DC has been the setting for comedies, thrillers and political dramas. One of the best known has to be All the President's Men directed by Alan J Pakula in 1976. Oliver Stone's 1995 film Nixon, Ivan Reigman's Dave (1993), Rob Reiner's The American President (1995) and Clint Eastwood's Absolute Power (1996) were also filmed here. Action films set in the city include Clear and Present Danger (1994), In the Line of Fire (1993), Independence Day (1996) and Minority Report (2002). Even the horror film The Exorcist (1973) was set in Georgetown and some scenes for Hannibal (2001) were filmed around Union Station. Minority Report with Tom Cruise was shot here in 2002. The comedies Head of State with Chris Rock and Bernie Mac, and Legally Blonde 2 with Reese Witherspoon were filmed here in 2003 as well as The Recruit, with Al Pacino. In 2005, DC was the backdrop for The Wedding Crashers with Owen Wilson and Christopher Walken, XXX2: State of the Union with Ice Cube and Samuel L Jackson, as well as Matt Damon and George Clooney in Syriana and Breach (2007), the true story of Robert Hanssen, FBI agent turned spy.
Literary Notes:
Washington, DC pops up in many novels, as befits the capital of a nation. It regularly appears in the novels of John Grisham, such as The Pelican Brief (1992), as well as the thrillers of Tom Clancy, most made into films, such as Clear and Present Danger (1985) and Patriot Games (1987). Washington, DC is home to the author Gore Vidal, who has set many of his novels here, but specifically chronicled the history of America from the Revolution through to the present day in five novels - Washington, DC (1967), Burr (1974), 1876 (1976), Lincoln (1984) and Empire (1987). Another DC-based author is David Baldacci whose Supreme Court drama The Simple Truth (1999) was a favourite of Bill Clinton. The Washington, DC reporters who exposed the Watergate break-in possibly changed the course of history. Carl Bernstein and Bob Woodward's dogged investigations in All the President's Men eventually led to the indictment of President Richard Nixon in 1974. Monica's Story (1999), by Andrew Morton, focuses on the President Clinton/Monica Lewinsky scandal.
© Columbus Travel Media Ltd.
reviewed by Dave, 43 weeks ago
From Lincoln to the Capitol
We spent an eclectic day walking from the Lincoln Memorial to the Capitol Building and much in between.
Our cab dropped us at the steps of memorial to the US's most iconic president, Abraham Lincoln, and the sheer scale of the architecture was immediately obvious. From the steps looking east the shard of the Washington Monument marks the centre point between our position and Capitol Hill. After doing a Rocky moment on the steps (I know - wrong city) we walked along the reflecting pool dodging the geese who clearly don't mind people but like to leave you their mark at any opportunity. You do get the sense of being watched and the buzzing of helicopters and aircraft gave us the view that if we did step out of line it wouldn't be long before you were approached by a guy with something in his ear.
Past the pool and the place where Forest Gump and Martin Luther King, before him did their speeches, we came across the WWII memorial which for me was the highlight. You could spend more than a good hour here even if, like me, the air museum was still to come.
Up the hump to the Washington monument which then provided us with our first view of the White House to our left. Like so many landmarks, it seemed dwarfed by it's surroundings but that might have been due to us being quite a distance away. Try to get right up to the monument and then look up to the top - very weird experience...
We were now half way down and entering the museum mile. These were just great and we could have spent a a few hours in each but as it was we skipped quickly to the air and space museum where you could get up close and personal with five or six decades of air travel. As with most museums the silver surfer staff were really helpful and who knows some of them could have flown these aircraft in their prime...
With the day drawing to a close we ended up at the opposite end and at the foot of power - the US Capitol Building. We only looked around the outside so next time we're getting in to have a nose around.
What to do next? We jumped into a cab and made our way to Georgetown where we swapped notes with the local student population over a few beers
reviewed by tjenness, 49 weeks ago
Georgetown
stayed in Georgetown, really pretty with great shops (all the usual and one-offs too), loads of places to eat, from pavement cafes to watch the world go by or more upmarket restaurants. Particularly beautiful in spring (can be bone-chillingly cold in winter!).
The underground system is easy to use.
reviewed by Jeanette, 46 weeks ago
It's free entry into the zoo and there's loads to see and lots of guides around to give you information. A great place to go to pass a few hours.
Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery , Eighth and F Streets
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Find out moreNational Air and Space Museum - Steven S Udvar-Hazy Center , 14390 Air and Space Museum Parkway, Chantilly, Virginia
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reviewed by jenny chan, 46 weeks ago
It's free admission to this museum with plenty to see. Can easily spend a day here. Can get very busy so go early. Downside is the limited choice food which is also quite expensive.
reviewed by jenny chan, 46 weeks ago
Great location.Spacious rooms.Staff are freindly and courteous. Lovely decor and amenities aplenty. Definitely recommend.