Feature

Only an hour from Oslo, Østfold has long been a popular holiday destination for Norwegians, but is all too often bypassed by foreign tourists heading west to the fjords, or north to the North Cape and the Lofoten Islands. Big mistake. There is much to see and do here, and the mild weather makes it a perfect summer option.

Fredrikstad and Gamlebyen

Fredrikstad's Old Town, Gamlebyen, founded in the 16th century, is Scandinavia's best preserved fortified town, and one of Norway’s most popular attractions. Standing at the mouth of the Glomma, Norway’s longest river, it is surrounded by a star-shaped moat, with some of the canons that once guarded this garrison town still sitting on the leafy ramparts.

It might be old, but it’s no ghost town. Some 300 people live in Gamlebyen today, and hundreds of thousands visit every year to soak up the atmosphere and take a stroll around the old cobbled streets and quaint wooden houses.

Here you can indulge in a bit of shopping - there are small boutiques selling anything from antiques to fine foods, cutting-edge designer furniture and hand-woven clothes. Have a bite to eat at one of several cafes and restaurants - the cosy Mormors Cafe, which incongruously doubles up as a shoe shop, is a favourite with locals. Watch unique pieces being created at the glass-blowing workshop. Check out the local museum, or browse the colourful flea market (every Saturday from April to October).

Picturesque Gamlebyen has for decades been popular with artists and craftsmen, and there are still several studios and galleries here. The renowned Galleri Sand sells large-scale oil paintings, while Bastion 5 specializes in pottery and jewellery.

The Old Town burnt to the ground no fewer than five times, yet from the pillory on the main square to the drawbridge, which for years was the sole entrance point in to the town (it took 30 men to pull it up every evening), history lingers around every corner.

The Hvaler Archipelago

Twenty minutes south of Fredrikstad, the idyllic Hvaler Archipelago, a summer paradise made up of 800 islands, islets and skerries (many accessible only by boat), offers myriad opportunities for sunbathing and swimming.

The area boasts one of the highest concentrations of hytter (summer houses) in the whole of Norway, and the population grows tenfold each summer, but despite this seasonal influx the islands remain as popular as ever, with the said hytter selling for millions of kroner.

Many visitors to the islands come by boat, and find their own secluded mooring spot along the rocky coast (hvaler means whales, and the area was thus named because the huge granite slabs characteristics of these parts are reminiscent of a pod of cetaceans).

But there are also several sandy beaches to choose from. Storesand on the island of Kirkeøy is one of the biggest and best. Just don’t expect to have the beach all to yourself, as it’s a popular spot, and within easy reach of Skjærhalden, the main village in the archipelago.

The waters around the outermost islands are home to marine species and habitats that cannot be found elsewhere in Norway, including unique deep sea coral reefs, as well as fish, seals, sharks and colonies of seabirds. In September 2009, the Ytre Hvaler National Park, Norway's first, was opened here and aims to protect the local fauna and flora and encourage sustainable tourism.

Halden Fortress and the Halden Canal

Back on the mainland, Halden is another fortress town. The mighty Fredriksten Festning towers above the town centre and is particularly impressive when lit up at night. Perched on a hill facing Sweden across Iddefjord, one of eastern Norway’s steepest fjords, it was built in the 17th century to protect the border against attacks from its belligerent neighbour, and although it came under siege many times, it never fell into enemy hands.

The fortress makes a dramatic setting for an opera festival in June (showcasing Puccini’s Turandot in 2009) and outdoor concerts in summer. Willie Nelson and Def Leppard are two internationally acclaimed stars who performed here in recent years.

Northeast of Halden is the Halden Canal, one of only two navigable waterways in Norway. The canal links a string of lakes from Tistedal in the south to Skulerud, some 80km further north, via several sets of locks, with the ones at Brekke being northern Europe’s highest at close to 27m.

Hire a kayak if you have the muscle-power required to paddle the distance, or take a cruise on the M/S Turisten for a more laid back experience. The boat runs between Strømsfoss and Tistedal from June to September. The Canal Museum in Ørje is well worth a visit too (open from mid June to mid August, 1200-1800).

Indre Østfold

From here you are ideally placed to explore Indre Østfold, the most sparsely populated part of the county, where hundreds of lakes and huge forests await. This is a great place to try your hand at fishing (remember you will need a licence for most rivers and lakes), or go mushroom picking (the chanterelle reigns supreme here in season).

A popular walk in the area will take you to Linnekleppen, northern Europe’s only remaining manned fire tower. From the starting point in the Marker locality, 17km southeast of Rakkestad on route 105, the walk is clearly marked, and takes about an hour each way. The panorama from the top of the 17m high lookout tower is breathtaking, with forest stretching as far as the eye can see.

If you’d rather chill out, you can opt instead for a stay at Zen Resort, Norway’s first holistic spa. The eco-friendly resort, which opened in October 2008 in Rømskog, offers a variety of treatments, including Ayurvedic massage, as well as Japanese and Turkish baths, a Nordic sauna, and soft and salt-water swimming pools. Meditation and yoga classes are also available, as are canoes and bikes for those wishing to explore the area at their own leisure.

Moss and Jeløya Island

Or enjoy a bit of culture and fine dining on Jeløya Island in Moss. Gallery F15 is one of Norway’s most innovative contemporary art galleries, with temporary exhibitions covering anything from paintings to 3D installations and concept art. The gallery is also home to Momentum, the Nordic festival of modern art, which is held every other year.

And Refsnes Gods, a country mansion turned luxury hotel, is a good place to splash out on a gourmet meal - restaurant Munch is one of the county’s best, boasting excellent cuisine, a top wine cellar, expansive views over the Oslo fjord from the perfectly manicured gardens, and art by the Norwegian master (who was a regular here) adorning the walls.

There is, of course, much more to see and do in Østfold. You could explore Hankø, famous for its sailing regattas and royal summer residence. Go back in time along Oldtidsveien, where you'll find some of Norway’s best-preserved rock carvings. Or join in the fun at the Glomma Festival, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2009. One trip won’t be enough – you’ll just have to come back.

For more information on Norway, visit our destination guide

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

About the writer:

Marie worked as a journalist and head of editorial for a large travel publishing firm for the past ten years, and relocated to Norway in late 2007. In addition to her freelance work, she has authored a guidebook on London restaurants for Globe Pequot and worked on the upcoming Fodor's Essential Scandinavia guide.