Feature

Manhattanites have a special relationship with their neighbours from the borough next door. They playfully rib Brooklynites for living outside the hub of New York, while secretly envying them their bigger apartments and smaller rents.

The old joke has always been that those who live in Manhattan have a hard time getting themselves to Brooklyn. But, these days, even the staunchest islander cannot avoid taking a bridge or tunnel to the beautiful brownstone-filled borough, whether it’s to eat in the latest hot restaurant or to attend the latest hot-ticket live show. The locals are not the only ones tempted by the lure of Brooklyn. Visitors to the city have heard the call of this grassier, more laid-back New York. From ultra-hip Williamsburg to the foodie scene on Smith Street, Brooklyn is stealing the spotlight from Manhattan.

Smith Street

It used to be that the only Brooklyn stops on the tourist map were the Botanic Gardens and Coney Island, but these days, a visit to New York isn’t complete without a stroll down Smith Street. Being on the cutting edge of culinary trends, the restaurant-lined strip is home to several newish bars that specialize in classic cocktails. Clover Club, a handsome space done up in dark wood and pressed tin ceilings, serves up some of the city’s best pre-Prohibition era cocktails. You’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a simpler time as you sip meticulously mixed drinks at a mahogany bar that dates back to the 1890s and is manned by suspender-sporting mustachioed mixologists. In the cosy back parlour room, the drinks are served in antique glassware. A few doors down is another key destination for those who prefer to quaff in style. Char No. 4 is an all-American barbecue joint boasting the biggest homegrown whiskey collection in the borough. Its more than 150 bottles are mounted along the wall behind the bar, and include such rare offerings as Four Roses Yellow Label and Redbreast 12-Year-Old Pure Pot Still Irish Whiskey. The menu is as southern comfort as it gets, with fried pork nuggets and house-smoked thick-cut bacon, both of which make for a lovely pair with a glass of bourbon.

Williamsburg

Often likened to London’s Shoreditch, Williamsburg became a hipster haven back in the 1990s for its proximity to Manhattan’s Lower East Side and abundance of industrial spaces easily convertible to art and music studios. The neighbourhood has retained its edginess over the years despite an influx of upscale establishments amid the dive bars and grungy live music venues. One of the most talked about eateries in the area is Marlow & Sons, a temple of grass-fed meats and house-made sausages. And, while it might not be convenient to shop for animal parts while on holiday, it’s worth a stop into its sister shop Marlow & Daughters to see pseudo-celebrity butcher and nose-to-tail advocate Tom Mylan carve up carcasses right before your eyes. Williamsburg does rustic fare well, but also boasts a Michelin-star experience able to compete with the best from Manhattan. Dressler is cheffed by one Polo Dobkin, who made the move to Brooklyn after working in several lauded Manhattan kitchens.

Fortunately, the neighbourhood hasn’t been entirely overtaken by gastronomes. Its rock-and-roll roots still rule, especially at Public Assembly, a live music venue housed in what once was Galapagos Art Space (which can now be found in DUMBO). In its former incarnation, the space, with its reflection pool seen in the Jim Jarmusch film Coffee and Cigarettes, hosted performers like the Trachtenburg Family and comedian Sarah Silverman. The reinvented venue has similar acts, including a string of talented burlesque performers.

Park Slope

Once a laissez-faire—and largely lesbian—neighbourhood, Park Slope has become a playground for growing families, its sidewalks clogged with elaborate prams and designer tricycles. Sure, the lesbians are still there. Only now, they are laden with BabyBjörns and joined by straight couples sporting their own fashionable baby carriers. If you’re travelling with children, there is no shortage of kid-friendly activities in the area, from the small zoo in Prospect Park—that great green space able to give Central Park a run for its money—to cafés and taverns that welcome the little ones with open arms and kid’s menus. Flatbush Farm, a lofty barn-like establishment, is at the forefront of seasonal farm-to-table cuisine. Head out to the back patio on a sunny weekend and you may be treated to some form of cookout. When it’s not holding communal barbecue events, The Farm offers up simple, satisfying meals, well-priced pints, and wines-by-the-glass. Once you’ve lazed in the park and filled up on grub, you’ll want to fill your suitcase with booty. The shops along Fifth Avenue are not quite like those on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue, but they offer a plethora of pleasant surprises. Bird stocks cute tops and dresses by Nicole Farhi, Phillip Lim, and local designer Rachel Comey. Brooklyn mainstay Brooklyn Industries is a must for its signature t-shirts, hats, and messenger bags.

DUMBO

If it seems like every four-block radius in New York has its own acronym, then that’s because it’s probably true. DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) is one of the newer monikers, so native New Yorkers born in the 60s or earlier might be unfamiliar with the term or simply loath to use it. But for the yuppified types who have taken over the neighbourhood, DUMBO, with its unevenly cobbled roads and warehouse spaces converted into high-priced lofts, goes by no other name. A haven for devotees of design, DUMBO is dotted with galleries and shops selling sleek items for the home. City Joinery features the works of Jonah Zuckerman, a master of clean modern lines with an organic feel. You may not be able to lug a chest of drawers home, but a lamp could easily find its way into your luggage. Or how about a pint-sized end table from another local design shop, Wonk, a go-to for furniture made for spatially-challenged New York apartments. For a more portable memento of your Brooklyn sojourn, stop into Zakka, a bookshop selling indie art magazines, Japanese toys, and other kitsch. The shop doubles as a creative space for up-and-coming artists.

Sleep

Staying in Brooklyn once meant crashing on some questionable friend-of-a-friend’s sofa. In the last couple of years, a rash of chic boutique hotels has cropped up across the borough, including Hotel Le Bleu in Park Slope. The 48-room sleeper has billed itself as the first luxury hotel in Brooklyn, and offers spectacular views of Lady Liberty and the Manhattan skyline from west-facing rooms. Nu Hotel on Smith Street combines sleek minimalist style with eco-friendly sensibility. White-on-white rooms are accented with cork floors and salvaged wood furnishings, and, in some cases—for no apparent reason—hammocks. Additional hotels are planned: the W offshoot, aloft, will open a Brooklyn location in the summer of 2010, and Indigo Hotel is expected to start welcoming guests early next year.

Naturally, you’ll want to shoot over to Manhattan at some point. In many cases, a short subway ride will do it, but if you’re up for a unique experience, we recommend hoofing it. Walking across the Brooklyn Bridge is a New York tradition and an unforgettable way to see the city. If you can, have a lover meet you halfway to live out your very own New York movie moment.

For more information on all of New York City, visit our destination guide

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About the writer:

Chantal Martineau writes about travel, food, and drinks for such titles as Saveur, Allure, Women's Health, The Globe and Mail and Imbibe. She also writes the Drink column for US Airways magazine.