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A lot of the bars in the Embassy district just down from the Royal Palace manage to be a triumph of style over substance, but one that is certainly more shabby than chic is the Palace Bar of the Palace Grill. This place has been going for twenty years and the current owner (who inherited the place from his mother last year) has no plans to change anything. There are Hendrix pictures on the wall and a dartboard in the corner and the crowd is very mixed, attracting those who probably should know better and those who certainly know worse. At the back there is a multi-level terrace bar with DJs, and live bands in the summer. The attached Grill is tiny, but serves highly rated food. On my visit, the large tarpaulin over the terrace was doing a poor job of keeping the rain out, but inside was warm and friendly, and it didn't take long before I was part of a group of happy drinkers. Some were Norwegians from the remote west coast, others had moved to Oslo from other parts of Europe.

If you fancy somewhere in the posh part of town that really lives up to its location then the Champagneria just around the corner from the Palace Grill is the place to head to. In a strange angular building that looks like it was built as a shop, Champagneria is currently embroiled in a legal dispute with the Champagne Region over the use of the name. Less gregarious than the Palace, you won't be out of place in a designer suit or cocktail frock ordering a bottle of vintage Dom Perignon here, but neither will you feel unwelcome just having a beer. The staff are good looking and efficient although friendly in an unattainable kind of way.

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