Feature

Ventura would never be described as 'tragically hip'. There are no budding starlets, no paparazzi, no designer stores nor celebrity chefs. That's what's so great about it.

A decade or so ago, Ventura was a somewhat sleepy, slightly gritty beach town. Old brick buildings housed second-hand shops or eccentric stores such as Things From Heaven, the dusty angel shop with an angry-looking angel mannequin in the window; teen Goths wandered the streets and a tired Holiday Inn overlooked the deserted beach.

What a difference a few years make. Those picturesque historic buildings have become cool boutiques, superb restaurants, wine bars and trendy bistros. The Goths grew up and moved on. The Holiday Inn was renovated and spiffed up, and now waves an upscale Crowne Plaza flag.

The coastal community has undergone an amazing renaissance, but Ventura has not lost its laidback feel. You can still stroll the beach with nary a soul save the occasional dogwalker, and take in the sunset on the old wood pier. Sure - edgy new bars like El Rey Cantina draw crowds, with bras hanging from chandeliers and Velvet Elvis paintings on the walls, but loyal old-timers have filled red-leather booths at The Sportsman since 1950. Thrift stores are now vintage-clothing boutiques, but you can still find great bargains (like the ski jacket I picked up for $2.97 and immediately wore on a windy afternoon).

DOWNTOWN

Downtown Ventura is a haven for independent, unique boutiques. The wine-and-cheese shop Paradise Pantry specialises in obscure labels; the organic clothing store Korazon Organics stocks bamboo T-shirts, and Betty B sells an eclectic mix of handcrafted jewellery, hand-tooled leather belts and hand-carved wood bracelets — along with beautiful ocean photography.

You can taste the finest Californian olive oils at We Olive, sample exquisite truffles at Trufflehounds Fine Chocolates, get yourself kitted out for a day on the waves at Wetsand Surf Shop or adorn your home with retro surf signs from B. on Main. Even the antique and second-hand stores feel creative and fun, with shelves full of gumball machines and Wizard of Oz clocks.

California State University Channel Islands set up an art gallery in a brick building that was once the office of Erle Stanley Gardner, a lawyer who wrote fiction in his spare time. If Gardner’s name doesn’t ring a bell, perhaps you’ve heard of Perry Mason? Yes, Gardner, attorney and author, created Perry Mason in this very building.

Stick around after the sun sets. Ventura really comes to life after dark, with music streaming out of tapas bars, bistros, cantinas and lounges. A slew of excellent restaurants have opened in the past few years – rivalling the best in LA, but with Ventura-low prices and Ventura-generous portions.

EAT

With so many great restaurants downtown, it’s almost impossible to narrow the choices, but here’s a couple for starters: Brooks is a terrific fine-dining option, emphasizing thick steaks (but Chef Andy will happily whip up a yummy seasonal veggie tasting menu if you ask) and to-die-for desserts. Try Tutti’s for lunch – delicious salads, warm-from-the-oven breads and pleasant courtyard seating.
 
DRINK

Weaver Wines (soon to change its name to Wine Rack) specialises in small-batch, hard-to-find vintages from around the world. If you’re the beer type, Anacapa Brewery not only has 24 different handcrafted ales and lagers, but delicious homemade food and an innovative comfort-food menu — and really nice people. Try the sweet-potato fries.

PLAY

Watermark also belongs in the ‘Eat’ and ‘Drink’ categories. Ventura’s most elegant, upscale restaurant (and the only one with a dress code) is located in a beautifully restored Spanish-Revival/Art Deco bank building with the original 1920s murals, tiles, and vault (which now holds liquor) intact. The sophisticated rooftop bar has become the place to be on Sunday afternoon with live music and sunset views. Have a drink, then make your way downstairs for a memorable meal.

HARBOUR

The Harbour seems touristy, but along with the carousel and souvenir shops lining waterfront walkways, there are excellent restaurants, fun activities, and Channel Islands excursions. Rent a kayak, paddleboat or other water toy, take a dive class, or go on a harbour cruise. And if you’re looking for entertainment, there’s always something going on, from live concerts to comedy shows.

Explore the exhibits at Channel Islands National Park headquarters. Better yet, take an island excursion. With 175 miles of undeveloped shoreline, pristine beaches, and wildlife sightings, the Channel Islands are known as ‘America’s Galapagos’. Island Packers has transported hikers, campers, and nature lovers to the Channel Islands since 1968. Getting there is half the adventure: pods of up to a thousand dolphins ride in the ship’s wake; pelicans and other sea birds soar overhead; curious sea lions bob along. The real fun comes when you spot the flash of a whale’s tail, an arch of its back or its impressive blows.

When you arrive, sign up for a guided kayaking tour of the sea caves on Santa Cruz Island at Channel Island Kayak Centers. As you paddle along, you’ll spot starfish clinging to the rocks, crabs crawling along underwater kelp forests, and seabirds perched on rocky outcrops. Sheer vertical cliffs rise from the sea, opening into dim, cool caverns, with waves splashing at the entrance, hinting at whitewater within.

For an entertaining meal back on the mainland, The Greek serves up platters piled with kebabs, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), spanokopita (filo stuffed with feta cheese and spinach), tyropita (cheese-stuffed puff pastry), gyros, and saganaki (flaming goat cheese - a sizzling, fiery show in itself). Plates fly; music plays; agile waiters balance glasses on their heads and tables in their mouths; belly dancers twirl. Diners, who perhaps indulged in a few sips of ouzo, form clumsy dance circles. When all this exuberance is over, it’s probably time for an after-dinner cocktail – for this you can’t beat a margarita on the upstairs patio of Margarita Villa.

BEACH

This is why I come to Ventura. The beach, pier and oceanfront promenade are always quiet, never crowded. See what it looks like now.

Surfers ride waves at Surfer’s Point and, thanks to the stiff breezes, watching kite surfers makes for an entertaining show. The bike path stretches more than 12 miles, past the sandy beach, along the rocky wild shore and grassy promenade. The path continues to the Ventura River Estuary —part of the Central Coast Birding Trail — with hundreds of pelicans, cormorants, ducks, egrets, herons, and other seabirds.

The Ventura County Fairgrounds butt against the beach, so city promoters brag about their 'county fair with ocean air'. The County Fair attracts topnotch, old-school entertainment, along with rides, exhibits and other typical fair fun. In the past few years, The Beach Boys, Doobie Brothers, KC & the Sunshine Band and The Four Seasons have performed —free with fair admission.

If you decide to stay for a spell, the Crowne Plaza, Ventura’s only oceanfront hotel, is right on the boardwalk. For the most sweeping vistas, ask for a room facing north, the higher the better.

BEST BEACHSIDE BETS

EAT: You can’t beat the setting or sunsets at Eric Ericsson’s, perched on the pier, but frankly, the food is so-so compared to the great downtown restaurants. I suggest appetizers in the upstairs bar; then walk downtown for dinner.
DRINK: Aqua, the indoor/outdoor lobby lounge at the Crowne Plaza, opens out to lovely ocean views.
PLAY: Get your wheels at Bike Depot Or stake your spot on the sand. If you didn’t bring your own chair or gigantic umbrella, get one here.

For more information on California, visit our destination guide

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About the writer:

Maryann is a lifelong Southern Californian who regularly covers travel – often with a health, spa or soft adventure angle – for publications such as
Cosmopolitan, The Los Angeles Times, US Airways magazine, Delta Sky, Sunset, Sherman’s Travel, Celebrated Living and Town & Country.